Recent content by skrsys

Just want a give an update. I ended up trying a capacitor to see if it would work before spending on a battery. The capacitor does work, the audio does not drop now when the truck cranks up on restarts. I might go ahead and get an additional battery eventually to ad reserve capacity, but the...

Ford does it a little differently, when you come to a complete stop it shuts off the engine. When you lift off the brake it turns on. So plenty of time for oil to circulate by the time you hit the gas. Since the draw from the starter is what is causing the power to cut, that’s why I think...

So this is my setup, I’m running 1/0 gauge directly from the battery to the fuse block: I have a relay coming off the fuse block that is triggered by 5 amp circuit that turns on in the ACC position. Then the 10 amp out on the relay goes to the remote in’s of dsp & amps. The reason I added the...

The head unit does not lose power. The reason I don’t think it’s the amps is because I’ve noticed my head & tail lights flicker when this happens also. It’s very brief, less than a second.

Hi everyone, I just got my system setup, and is working well, except for when the truck restarts during the start/stop. When the engine cranks back on, I lose audio for less than a second. I was thinking, if I add a 2nd battery up (probably lithium) to the amps directly the sound may not be...

Space is the issue for me, I fold up the seat often and use the floor space. Using just one leaves me enough room, but two will not work.

It's not powered, this is a pic of it:

I'm finally getting back into building a system after many years. I figure I'll document what I do. Here's my truck I initially wanted just a sub & amp. Then eventually, upgrade the fronts at a later date. So, I built this amp rack using acrylic and mounted it behind the seat to drive a...

I'll try it with what I have and go from there. Thanks

That makes sense. One other option I'm contemplating is getting the 2 ohm DVC version of the L7t that way I can run @ 4 ohms. The amp will produce +700w rms @ 4 ohms, so that maybe a better match for the amp.

It goes under my truck's backseat, so it has to be a shallow sub. My understanding is that at higher ohms the clarity of sound is better. So, if my amp can match the power requirement of the sub @ 8 ohms, I was thinking why not, because running @ 2 ohm I'm leaving a lot of the power of the amp...

Thanks, I'll try that.

Thanks for having me in the group, I'm getting back into car audio after a long time away. I have a RF Power T1000-1bdcp that can put out +1000w @ 2 ohms approximately +500w @ 8 ohms(verified by RF tech support). My sub is a Kicker L7t 4 ohm DVC 600w RMS. I was thinking running it @ 8 ohm and...