Recent content by sicone22

Oddly enough they seemed to be decent back in the day..... with tech these days could very well be yesterday lol..... anyway, however everything I have seen from 800 watts to the "21K" they just don't seem to hold long before blowing and not the common insufficient power issue you see so...

Absolutely you can run per sub, with the gain set properly and by that I mean no where near matched to your RCA voltage. 😂 As people have already answered that. Stetsom I would stay away from. IMO as I've not seen anyone who praises them in the least. Banda is good as well as Soundigital and...

G35 sedan and want the subs up? I have a g35x but assume if yours is RWD they still have the same trunk. (The x is built on a m/f chassis fyi) and I don't see the room having subs up.

Couldn't find anything out there with what? If you are talking about woofer specs https://www.americanbassusa.com/xr-10-d2.htm 1.25-1.5cu is all you need. What amplifier do you have? Is it 1ohm stable or 2ohm. Reason I ask is because you stated "cea" and most amplifiers that state cea...

Where are you located? I should open a shop there lol. Surprisingly they removed the fuse even. Do you have a multi meter? Check grounds yourself? I am willing to bet the ground is the problem with the alternator. That mixed with the fact the alternator is too small to begin with. If the...

RCA i assume is ran on the opposite side as power wire? Ground your alternator housing.

no, the p3 will need more out of the amp and honestly the JL isnt going to have a better preamp than the smart 3 anyway, the t0 will sound good either way. I personally liked the p3s but they are nothing at all special. the t0 is better components and will sound better sq or spl.

Thermal protection. Barely ran mine hard and constantly cut power in half and would shut down. Ditched it for a jl jx1000 and thing doesn't even get warm

taramps customer service is top notch i must say from my expierence with them. skars are meant to do one thing, be loud. their preamp section is not what i would call quality, as you heard. JL is clean, does put down power and sounds fantastic, i do not see a reason to run it on RF Ts, p3s...

should really scope your source unit and find your true max clean volume level, however your way certainly works but you may be leaving some on the table. 40hz at 0db is the safest but -5 is fine, -10 can be pushing it depending on music choice.

it does a self health check then charges the rails. It is very IC driven with the different ohm load same ratings means it needs to cut voltage at 1ohm because it will naturally want to put out 6k at 1ohm if it does 3k at 2 ohm

It will do over 1500 and it will do it with extreme efficency to boot. There is absolutely a reason for the price tag. JLs are beautiful amps but none the less there is a time and place for such, this is not it.

no i would take the JL however you need to return the JL, buy a alternator and a spool of 1/0, smart 3, agm battery, do the big 3 and put the smack down on those Ts. they will take over 700 and you are way too focused on that number. a smart 3k is not .5 stable, i would love to see the wave on...

seperate and price if so?

We already determined that his amp has high level inputs. I am unsure why you think I am debating this with you. The OP already did it. If it blows the opamp section it will go into protect.