Recent content by ryanc

true, you can get some good sound quality out of 160kbps. Sometimes it all depends on what was used to do the encoding of the MP3 - some are better than others when it comes to quality. I like to get 192 when possible still, and I always rip at 256, just to keep it as true to the original as...

mp3 is a lossy format, which means that you do lose some sound quality when using an MP3 instead of a WAV. If you go with a higher bit rate MP3 you shouldnt' be able to tell the difference between that and a WAV. I'd go with 192kbps or 256kbps for an MP3. This is especially important if you...

go on ebay and buy some stuff. If limited on cash I'd get a single 12" or 15" sub and go with a amp that best matches the power handling of that sub, then i'd go with a ported box tuned to whatever you want (i prefer the low 30's) and you should be able to do that with $500. now if you need a...

if you're wondering about how to get the sound to it, you'll need an amp that has pass-through RCA outputs so that you can run the RCAs to one amp and then from that amp to the other amp. If you don't have that feature available, you may be able to get away with using a 2nd set of line-level...

You should be able to find screws to take apart just about any plastic panel in your car. If you can't find any screws, then chances are it's a snap on part. In my Explorer install I didn't have to unscrew anything - everything snapped out. The only thing that was really screwed down was the...

http://www.klausaudio.com/caraudio/subwoofer_boxes/customize.cfm?productid=77

You're probably going to end up looking at about $100 to get a converter to handle running a sub amp. I have a 10 amp converter that I had used a few years back and when I had it hooked up to my 360 watt amp the subs would cut out at higher volumes (because the amp wasn't getting enough power)...

You should make the box from 3/4" MDF and I always use 1 5/8" coarse thread drywall screws (countersunk with pilot holes to avoid splitting). I also wood-glue all the pieces together. When designing your box be sure to take the thickness of the box into account. $70 isn't really that bad for...

It would make sense to subtract rather than to add the correction factor. JL Audio explains that it is because one wall of the port is usually a wall of the box, "effectively adding length to the port". So since having it on the wall adds length, it would only make sense to correct that by...

Why don't you think they'll sound good in the trunk? I'd just put them in a box in the trunk, fire them towards the tail lights and have the box positioned as much towards the front of the car as possible. This will get you the best sound from your subs. That should work out well for you.

I would recommend either doing a cutout window of 1/4" plexiglass (if you don't do the entire back as plexi), or do the whole back in at least 1/2" plexiglass. Home depot usually has 2' x 4' or 36" x 42" (i think) sheets of 1/4" for about $30. Other than that, www.usplastic.com has thicker...

The internal volume you calculate should be a total of everything - so if you have a single box, and your sub requires 4.5 cubic feet, and your sub displaces 0.1562 cubic feet, and the port's total internal volume is 0.066 cubic feet, the dimensions you should build the box to should be based on...

home depot - prices may vary though. In Indiana it was about $16 somethin and in Wisconsin here it's about $20 for a 4x8' sheet of it. They usually carry 3/4" or 1/2", and sometimes 5/8".

http://www.klausaudio.com