Recent content by Merlin 331

i did one for my mom's car i put a single 10 polk in a box. it is mounted directly below the rear deck. I put spaces made of MDF and then used a 3/4 MDF sheet to make a large flat surface. i mounted the driver off th the side and then made a frame out of some scrap wood and fiberglassed all...

any panel you can remove take it off, put new christmas tree fasteners on when you reinstall the panel, dynamat the hell out of the panel and metal use heat it will help the mat to conform to the shapes also use a heavy wood roller to press it down good tighten all the screws tight also...

sounds sweet. The cast Ford cranks are great, i like cast cranks over forged because they give more than a forged crank, i just don't spin them more than 6000. the 440 hemi is awsome i have only seen 3 in my life time (20 years short but ). if i had something to put it in i might have to...

i hate forgetting to log in refer to above

he is right it is a 105 amp alt. take itout have it rewound to about 180 amps or 200 amps any good alt. shop should have the stuff to do it, then hook a bigger cap say a 5 farad or maybe two 2 farad caps to stregthen the electrical system, also take a good look at your batt, and batt. terminals.

what kind of crank did you go with? did you have the matchine shop splay the bottom end so you could put a 4 bold cap on instead of a 2 bolt? I am real interested in hearing about your project, besides car audio the next best thing is car performance. good luck, and the HEMI block, if you can...

only thing i could tell you is take the subs out otherwise look out the side views, the more the mirror shakes the better

you can lay layers of fiberglass on the back side of the door panels and dask, it will make it stronger and less flexable. Use new christmas tree fasteners when you reinstall your panels, and the dask you can use some of that spray in foam insulation and cut it as needed after you aply it, to...

as long as the box is built correctly 3/4 mdf and propperly braced inside then the common air chamber will give you about a 3 db increase in speaker sensitivity, which will yield a louder speaker and a substantial increase in spl level. just make sure you know how to wire the subs to get a same...

there is more than enough airspace. put 2 subs in one box that way you pick up 3db and run2 amps about 500 watts rms each to the sub pairs.

some amps have a remote gain built in, Audio Control's Epicenter is a bass maximizer, some head units have variable output like alpine's bass engine, bass engine plus and bass engine pro.

the head unit only puts out a weak signal less than 1V. Find the built in factory amp and splice in to the from speakers, that way when you fade it to the front some you generate more signal to/from the line out convertor (L.O.C) then use your rca's to carry the signal to the amp.

I had a DX10 in a small sealed Q-Logic box with about 250 watts.. it was alright not a SPL monster but it had a good sound. I later made a box for it and put it in my home theater system. Now it rocks. If you are looking for something to fill out the bottom end of a realtivly low power system...

get the 2 12's make a custom box , the s7 sounds good in a sealed box but hit like hell in a slot load box. you can download the box specs from kicker.com. hook up about 750-1000 watts of good clean power with a sub sonic filter and anything he has should be put to shame. remember bury that...

the good thing about the epic 150 is its line driver out i think its a 9.5 V non-clipping signal that it sends to your amps RCA's. also it gives you some added control of your subs. plus the read out is good for tweaking systems. I have never had any problems with Audio Control also the sub...