Recent content by Maximus Audio

There are a lot of diff in the subs if you go to REAudio.com you can see. A few off the top of my head is the RMS power input of the sub and the Xmax of the sub. SX is a killer sub. States a 1000rms but I do 1500 from a PPI mono block to the one in my Kompressor. It has a good amount more Xmax...

If you want to step up and past the w6 in sq and spl then look into the SX line from RE. I sell RE JL Kicker and a bunch of other name brands and found the SX stomped over the W6. The SX is rated for 1000rms and I have a PPI 1500.1 mono block running to it at about 1500rms per sub and it takes...

10s that jiggle your brain..... RE Audio XXX, RE Audio MT, RE Audio MX, Digital Designs Z line 10, Digital Designs 9510 are a few that pop to mind when you need the most out of a sub. I guess Kicker Solo X 10 and JL 10w7 will work but I am not a fan of them. Super Loud and low go the XXX or MX...

There are not that many brands to pick from when it comes to the internal parts. A bad diode plate will show spikes and bad charge also leak ac into your dc line. External regulators are sweet when you want to bump up the voltage but not everyone wants that. I myself even though I have a lot of...

What I find craps out first on most alt that are built up is the diode plate inside. Most of the time the alt will put out as much as the plate can handle with no room for extra causing the plate to be pushed to the max and over heating. I have seen this happen to a crap load of alt. Even big...

Somthing with the design of the amp..... also had crappy damp factor. Was told by a few who used it that it was made for spl and to push out raw power crapy filters and boost

By Poughkeepsie

They where so not worth the money Fusion was asking for them. If I had to pay for them I would have been pissed. It had the power it was rated for but just made the subs sound flat. No real bottem end seemed to come from the amp. Double checked the thing to make sure the Subsonic was turned off...

A few pics of the last 3 system in my Mountaineer. 1st a full PPI system. Then a Fusion powered double 9515 setup. Batteries where linked with 1/0g wire till the copper came in. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2214403 Sorry no picks of the 4 9515 install till I find where the hell one of my...

If you talk to the designer of Kinetik Audio batteries (Rich) then you would know that using a lot of 4g runs would be better then a single big run when it comes to linking multi battery bank in the rear to the front battery or alts. This is for a few reasons. 1. you are able to fuse them using...

I have used tons of DD amps and subs and found that for music and not tone burst you can run a crap load of power.... Talk to the owner of DD Juss and he will tell you a 9515 is not rated to take a Z1 amp but it will and take it all day. You will go louder using 2 3515s with the same amp and...

3500 is a weaker vers of the 9500 line both SQL subs but for SQ look at the 9900 line since it has a lighter cone then both the 3500 and 9500. Their sq line is the 9100. You can get wood grain and other kewl cones on any sub they make if you have the $$$. Not worth the extra money unless you...

what kind of money are you looking to spend.

How much room? Ever think about going stupid with multi cheaper subs that need less power but since you use more subs you end up with more air disp. This will always give you more output! Since you would be dumping power into multi subs the power will not be heating up a single or dual coil...

I have a 1998 Mountaineer with a 5.0 under the hood. The 5.0 turns 3 alternators. All alts. are beefed up to the max. I have a Kinetik HC2000 under the hood and 10 HC2400 in the back banked together with copper straps. I have Digital Disigns Z1 amps (4) and 8 digital 2ch amps for my voice setup...