Recent content by Kyle F

Hey guys. So this isn't particularly specific to car audio, however, I am looking for an MG ZR but unsure which to go for. 1.4 or 1.8L. I want a petrol, not a diesel though. The most I've seen in the UK being sold (some are petrol but not the one I want) are diesels. I want a blue one. My...

The +12v wire it's currently drawing power from (1 wire) warms up as the amp warms up. This is why I want to use a power inverter/converter where I can use actual 4 or 8 gauge cables instead of the PSUs +12v wires. I just don't really like using a modded PSU. It's way safer to use an...

How do I find out? It's an Edge EDB10 10" V2 750W with a 20A fuse. Edit: It currently runs off of a 650W PC PSU but it's too dodgy. This is why I am looking for a cleaner way of powering it in-home. It seems and looks like using an AC to DC converter power supply is a lot safer and less dodgy...

Some people tell me to just buy a car battery and charger and power the amp that way whilst others tell me to look for an AC to DC inverter/converter. I can't find an 800W 40/60A one though. :/ I've been told it's best and more clean to buy the required inverter/converter and then get an amp...

Hey guys! What is the best method or alternative option for powering a car amp with a 12v DC to AC power converter? I basically want to power my 750W Edge car sub in home instead of using a 650W PC PSU because it’s jank (dodgy) and the +12v yellow wire is too thin and warms up. I’ve been told...

My mistake. Yes the PSU has other +12v yellow wires but only one is being used to power the amp. There is no power fluctuations, distortion, or the amp going into protect which is a good sign. I can confirm it was just one song that the driver flex was odd. It doesn't do it on other songs, or...

I believe it’s 40A. I’m unsure exactly. Edit: looking at a picture of the connector on my iPhone as I’m not at home, there’s only 1 yellow +12V cable connected to the +12V terminal on the amp. But as I said, sometimes that yellow wire will get a little bit warm but not a concerning warm.

That is true although I don’t get much of a response to my threads on there so I had to Google another forum that supports discussion of car audio. Technically it is a car sub but it’s powered in home.

True, I'll get one for that. Also on an off-topic note; your signature had me messed up! haha Not sure if I'm honest. Got the sub on right now and noticed the +12V yellow cable warming up a tad, not too much for concern though. It is powered by a 650W PC PSU.

Hey guys. I've had this subwoofer hooked up to a 650W PSU and connected to a splitter that connects both my sub RCA and HiFi AUX cables that connect into my PC for some time. Bass response is lovely. Bass Boost on the subs' amp is all the way down (0dB). I took a video comparison with my iPhone...

My 750W 10" sub is fine as far as the frequencies. It doesn't have any issue driving the lower frequencies, only my 900W 12" one did because I thought I blew the voice coil. It seems the voice coil is going out on the 12" one, but it still works..it just doesn't perform properly with the lower...

Hey guys. So a year ago some people may remember my thread regarding my Edge ED512A 900W subwoofer where the voice coil blew. Well, it seems it didn't completely blow as it still somewhat works. It's just 20 - 40 Hz excursion doesn't sound so good or almost barely hear it. 45-50+ Hz seems fine...

Hello to all! My name is Kyle. (Real name) I found this site on Google by searching "car audio forum" which was a strange coincidence. I am on AVSForums trying to get some help on something and usually takes a few weeks to a month to get a single response, sometimes not at all. :/