Recent content by Greg B

I ended up buying one and honestly couldn't find anything wrong with it. Now to spend some money on electrical

It's currently installed in another car but the input has 4 rca's that you cut off for speaker level signal. I forget if there's a high/low switch or if it's automatic. I'll need the loc because the key doesn't have outputs, just speaker wires.

I found this topic trying to research the same amp before I pull the trigger. One of the selling points for it over taramps was the bass knob and sundown customer service told me it's not guaranteed to be included. Every comment or video I've seen about yardsale has been positive but I'm still...

I have a 2011 santa fe with the base stereo. Does anyone know if I'd have to worry about roll off? Also I'll be using my 4 channel kicker key and was curious about the best place to wire the loc for the sub. My plan is to use radio and car side harnesses to avoid cutting anything. I could run...

Thanks for the replies I took everything apart and re tightening it after the first few suggestions and hadn't had any problems until yesterday. Again popping the hood fixed it but the battery looked like it may be leaking. I'll have them warranty it the next chance I get

Today when I popped the hood with the key on I got power back so it may have nothing to do with touching the battery. And I didn't mean to insinuate the battery was loose. That first post was painfully long so I shortened some of it

I have a 2009 honda fit. Battery is less than 2 years old and I only replaced it because the old one was original. I'm running a kicker key on the front stage and have a few different sub amps I've gone between. All are 800 rms or less. I have the key up front so I used separate power and ground...

I agree with the other advice you've received so far. To make the best of your current situation check out some YouTube videos on setting gains and impedance rise. When the sub is moving that 4 ohms becomes 8 or more so you're probably seeing more like 200 watts. I'd take a multimeter and check...

Here it is mounted. I’ll try to get some more if I get home before it’s dark one of the next few days. I don’t doubt the motor is 153 oz and according to the shipping labels it’s heavier than a 12” ssa demon. I did stretch it out when I ran to the store and probably gave it about 700 watts after...

It came in today and everything seems pretty solid, well the glue joint on the dust cap is a little uneven but whatever. I threw it in my old 1.4 prefab and played a few songs at lower volume (neighbors) It sounds good so far and doubles my storage space.

I got the 10. It’s recommended for 1.55-1.65 so I’m thinking the 1.8 will be better plus I built it myself and the 1.4 is a prefab. I’m sure I’ll end up trying both and probably build at least 1 after that

I decided to give it a shot. I’m currently going back and forth between a few 12’s & want to make better use of my hatch space. Gonna try out a 1.4 35hz box I have and if it’s not breathing in there I have a 1.8 that I repurposed the port from so it could be tuned to whatever

I was just looking at the Gladiator 10 on their website. It looks pretty beefy and the description says it was “designed for extended low frequency play in a daily driver” but the specs say 40hz as the lower end of response and fs is listed at 44. I’m wondering if it’s a typo because the numbers...

When I put it in the car before it seemed like it was vibrating at one frequency but it was hard to tell over the door speakers. Redid the wiring twice, changed amps and still the same. I just pop tested it and both coils did what they should so I decided to test the coils individually on the...

I went to use a sub I haven’t run for a while and nothing. I visually inspected it and checked the resistance and everything seems good. It has been sitting in a damp shed that sometimes gets critters. I’m actually not that disappointed because now I have an excuse to rebuild it to a d2 but I’m...