Recent content by dave_3148

rattle raper lol, i think someone mentioned this name b4

i couldnt agree more. i think there pointless in any car. "im to lazy to look down so i guess ill look to the left"

**** i was hoping for something on the lines of 300.

whats a rough estimate of what a painted fiberglass box for a single cab truck at your average local shop?

price is not the problem mounting depth is. im thinking of going fiberglass and i think i will get 2.2-2.5 cubes would 12 se's or k's work in that size? where can i find se specs? edit: what about o's?

i dont really have one ill single them out hc - mounting depth a - mounting depth brahma - mounting depth w7 - mounting depth eclipse - overpriced id max - mounting depth looks like se maybe

what sub(s) should i get that perform well in almost 2.0 cubes (i managed to get more space by taking out the jack storage) 1. must be 12 or smaller 2. sq/spl mix 3. work well with 1000 watts or so total 4. not to deep mounting depth

**** looks like 2 ed 10k's

what size my box if made out of 3/4 mdf? external dim. w 53 h 12 1/2 bottom d 8 1/2 top d 5 this is with the seats all the way back wich is what i like. i might move them up to get a extra inch or so

i need a 12 (maybe 10) that will work in 1 cube sealed box to go behind my seat. any suggestions? what about a "k"?

the internal amps nto in the faceplate so i doubt they would. im sure there not because of thieves..

1500 and a lot more

i havnt read to most of this thread but if you plan to compete i say ditch the pines they have good sq but there not spl subs.

im pretty sure 1.7 would be fine. try it out and if it sounds bad brace the hell out of it.

peek ratings are pointless in car audio. i wouldnt give it that much but if you do watch the gains. and volume