Recent content by Danometal

My main concerns when designing an audio setup are to decide: 1). how much space can/will I give up for a box/amp rack (1 x 12 inch sub = 2+ cubes plus port displacement, 2 x 12 inch, or 1 x 15 inch sub = 4+ cubes plus port displacement, etc) 2). how much power can/will I run (If budget is...

I have helped build a full on SQ install with PPI Black Ice amps. They are GREAT. I wonder what "internet brands" have fully active crossovers like the PPIs anywhere near the price of the Phantoms, Black Ices, and Power series. BTW, that setup sounds amazing. So much clean power! Pic:

The 12s provide 35% more cone area than the 10s FWIW.

Another factor in the decision should be final impedance load, assuming that 3K is a single amp. (3 subs will typically = 1.33 ohm or 2.66 depending)

Double post that neither posted, so I posted a third time with less text. Stupid smart phone.

Not sure what your sub's RMS rating is at, but Rockford's Punch amps are great.

The Rockford Punch amps are great. Go for it if it meets the power rating of your sub. It's fine to overpower subs with clean power. Underpowering causes most people to get too carried away with the gain knob and cause the amp to clip, which is bad for subs.

The Rockford Punch amps are great. Go for it if it meets the power rating of your sub. It's fine to overpower subs with clean power. Underpowering causes most people to get too carried away with the gain knob and can cause the amp to clip, which is bad for subs.

I'm glad to see someone else has accepted the not-so-secret secret of SQ ported boxes; tuning low. Your average installer at an average stereo shop will generally recommend tuning in the mid 30s for lots of output. The bad news with that is you get a harsh peak around 40-60 hz, a low end...

If I got a SUV, my wife would steal it permanently lolz

Sup man? If I ever decide to tune to 30 hz, I have a cool super space saver design in my head. Picture only a third of my trunk taken up, and the sub reverse mounted whereas the basket/magnet sinks into the right rear quarter panel, and an aero port exiting the rear towards the trunk with...

Try this: swap the polarity of the wires going to your sub box. Seriously. Assuming your door speakers aren't high passed at all, and they sound fine with no subs playing, I bet the sub is simply out of phase with the main speakers. Super easy fix if so.

You'll need to model those subs in WinISD or whatever software that can lend you insight on the ideal airspace for those subs (or get someone to do it for you), and then you'll know your airspace requirements, and can thus design the size and shape of the box accordingly. As for your amp, I...

Assuming you'll be using .75 inch MDF for a box, you're looking at a maximum of 2.12 cubic feet of available space. I think that, once you factor in woofer displacement, whatever port volume, any bracing, and any space around the box for the port to breath (if applicable to your allotted space)...

Oh, and to further add; sealed boxes REQUIRE cabin gain to somewhat balance out the typical early roll-off of the frequency response as the frequency gets lower. In a 4 door sedan like mine, rolling every window down and opening the sun roof removes quite a bit of the cabin gain, and that also...