Recent content by dangerdan86

IMO, its only worth using a dsp if you are going with an active speaker setup.....well, you would be gaining time alighnment, that makes a difference......It requires some knoledge on how to tune it without hurting your speakers, but its night and day difference over a passive setup. If your...

Looks like you might be able to pull the heatsink off the side and access the amplifier.

Hmmm, I'm not really sure how you would measure the output of the integrated amp. The only way I can think of is to pull the speaker out of the enclosure and get to the amp terminals. If they used insert nuts to secure the sub to the box it shouldn't be too bad to remove. Maybe look online...

Glad to hear you got it figured out. What powered sub are you using? You should be able to do it the same way you did the others. Use a 50hz, but use the -5db file.

yes, red is usually the ignition/accessory wire, it needs to be connected from the factory harness to the one for the new head unit. Yes, there will be a factory fuse that would protect the head unit. usually under the hood or under the dash. Also a lot of head units have a fuse on the back...

Get a good battery up front (you should do this big stereo or not) I went with a northstar 27F in my Tundra, but anything from Northstar, XS Power, Optima, Odyssey will work. That rd1500/1 is a little overkill for just one w6, but nothing wrong with that, just dont over power the sub...

I agree with Coolhand20th, turn everything off and run a completely flat curve. I found on my kenwood that i can run a +1 on the s/w and it doesn't clip and gives me 5v, so make sure to check that as well. You want the most gain the earliest on, so figure out what the safe maximum is for...

I guess it would really depend on how you have your crossovers set. I run my subs (10's) up to 90hz midbass (6") at 80-350, Midrange (3.5") 350-3500, and tweeter (1") 3500+ I guess you could run different tones for each different type of speaker, i never really thought about doing that. I...

Somethings off. It should be mostly flat at 0 volume (a little static, but flat), and as you turn up the volume, the amplitude of the sign wave will increase. You keep increasing until clip, and then you know your max volume thats safe. This is what happends if i go above 38 on the volume...

What volume on the head unit were you using when you took the measurement?

@nathanotis I'm using a similar scope (just different color) and a 9v adapter also. Purchase one of these guys and save the headache of alligator clips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VK8IEI/?tag=caraudiocom-20 Looks like you are using a 60hz'ish test track? Use a 1khz 0db test tone...