Recent content by coyote_5

sale pending... and sold.

to the top again... also, no trades. thx.

bump it up

bump...

bump...

Thanks! And.... bump

Hey, I responded over at DIYMA as well, this is a heavy sub, shipping's gonna cost a bit, so I don't want to do it for that.... evening bump...

morning bump

Turns out I'm going to run a 10" with my system so I won't be using this sub. I got this brand new and it hasn't seen power. I've only had it out of the box to look at it and take the pics. For those who don't know this is a Stereo Integrity 12" sub - dual 2 ohm. $200 + shipping from 53704...

lol, the amp will be easy to get to, there is a storage area over the spare tire that is easily accessible, that's where the amp will be. Cool. I'm seriously stupid on this stuff though, diagram/details? And if it's a simple switch, I probably could just leave it in the storage area along...

The enclosure for the 10 is small and out of the way and will be bolted to the car. Removing it would require pulling the sub from the box and then unbolting the enclosure from the body. It'll be much easier to just leave it there and hook it up when I needed it. On the other hand, the 12"...

I have a 10" that is in a glassed box over the wheel well (Suby Outback) - stealth and little effect on cargo area which is important. But I also have a 12" that I'd like to use as well (Not at the same time obv.) There will be times (family trips etc.) when I need every available inch of...

source? Everything I've ever read says you're fusing for the wire so it doesn't burn. The amps have internal fuses to protect them. Please explain how the amp will draw more than it's internal fusing will allow and ruin the amp and blow your sub. I'm serious, if I'm wrong I need to know!! lol

Interstate?

pretty sure 125a is the max recommended for 4awg... check out bcae1.com, that's where I found it.