I have an old RF 250 amp, the left channel works fine, but the other channel just makes the sub **** in (and stick out when I reverse polarity).... Anyone know what the prob is? Just too old and blown out, or what?
Thanks!
Semper Fi,
-Brent
All the Orion's I saw were like in the high $400's... Where are they 250 @?
Does anyone know what the RMS is for the VR's for sure. most all I can find are specs on the newer ones... I have the older all black ones...
Hey people,
I have 2 12" Comp VR's (the older ones that are all black)... What kind of amp would work best for these (dual 2 ohm, so their at 4 ohms a piece now)... I'm thinking of some kind of Kicker 2ohm mono load...
Are these subs 300 watts RMS?
I'm pretty sure WAY back someone said to get...
Just a quickie:
I have 2 4ohm DVC 12 inch subs... and a 400x2 (at 2 ohms) and 800x1 (at 4 ohms) (RMS) amp
Should I make each sub a 2 ohm load and do 1 sub on each channel or do a mono 4 ohm load??? Does it even matter?
Thanks!
-Brent
So what does it mean if the cap volt goes to 13 when the subs hit? It's not backing up the car power? I thought it was and that's why the radar detector stays at the same volts?
Is the voltage on my cap the voltage going to the amp?
My cap is usually at 14.2 (13 when the subs hit)... is that good?
Also, my radar detector (passport escort 8500) is always at 14.2 or 14.3, is that B/C the cap is keeping the rest pf my power at a normal rate?
Do mostly stock civic's run...
dang, I just realized I'm only putting 200w into each sub... I have the audiobahn 8002T or something like that.... 200x2 @ 4 ohm 400x2 @ 2ohm, but I have to run it a 4 ohm... And it can't handle a 2 ohm bridged load.... Is there any way I can wire it to put out more power? Can I get a 4 ohm...
but car domain doesn't have the old ones, does it?? That's why I want to know the RMS.... Arent' they different?
BTW, mine aren't the real old black ones, there the ones that were before the tan ones... Does anyone know what I'm talking about?