Recent content by BBB

If they will sound like coaxials, then I guess that's pretty bad, since I spent the extra $ for separates. Can anyone explain why this would degrade the SQ of the componants. I have read that the difference between separates and coaxials is mainly for marketing reasons. So, I guess I'm...

Is there any down side to doing this? interference from sound waves etc... My MB Quart's have this option and I believe a few other companies now allow for this mounting option as well.

I'll certainly continue playing around with it a bit. What is a good gap between the Hz with my low pass to the subs, and my high pass to the comps. given the 12dB slopes? I assume there should be a bit of a gap there?

A round speaker will always be better than an oval shaped speaker. Stronger cone, more accurate response. Maybe someone else can expand on this a bit more.

I'm pretty new to this as well, but it sounds like I'm a few months ahead of you, so I'll share what I've learned. Pioneer HU - Cool 6.5 Comps - cool, but go with kick panels if you are really going for SQ 6x9 - if you're upgrading factory speakers here, go with 6.5's with an adapter(better...

This is how my system is currently installed and tuned (by Tweeter). 1000/1 Powering two 10w6v2's Infrasonic Freq. 25 LP 67Hz with 12dB slope. Bass boost is at 45Hz 300/2 Powering a pair of PCE 216's HP 95Hz with 12dB slope the passive crossovers are at 2500Hz w/12dB slope & -3dB on...

I have a review for Tweeter: I went in there to listen to some speakers and check their prices. The prices are high (normal for car audio shops). The sales staff eithor tried to rip me off, or just don't know their stuff. They said I needed a 1000 watt JL amp to power two subs that JL list...

I have learned a lot from reading this forum, but I was hoping there is a good book or two that someone could recommend. I would consider myself to have beginner-intermediate knowledge. I paged through the "car stereo cookbook" and was thinking about picking it up. Any thoughts?

Try going to a couple of local car audio shops so you can listen to them. The speaker that sounds best to me, may not sound best to you. No one is a bigger expert on what will please your ears than you.

JL 1000/1 with the gain turned down pretty low. Power handling is 400 per sub.

I did the math using the internal dimensions, and accounted for driver displacement. I don't know how much bracing to calculate for, because I have not looked inside. The subs sound good, but I have no comparison. I can't easily compare it with the sound at the recommended enclosure size...

I paid a good bit of money to have a full install done, but I question the sealed enclosure that they built. I have a pair of 10w6v2's, JL recommeds .625 cu. ft. internal airspace per sub. So, simple enough, I need a box with 1.25 cu. ft. of airspace. After crunching the numbers, the volume...

You can probably find it for a little less, but here is a link, with a list of compatible cars. It looks like it works for anything Dodge made after '92. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BMhS6bYN4JK/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=127SWIX

I'm going to have about 1300 RMS watts (1000/1 & 300/2) powering my system in a VW Passat. Will this be too much for a 14 volt / 90 watt factory amp? Is there a rule of thumb here, or are there too many variables?

I'm planning on powering everything in my system with amps... A pair of subs and a pair of 6.5 separates. It's for a newish VW Passat. Will my factory HU be ok, or will upgrading it improve SQ? I thought it would not matter, but I just had someone in a local shop tell me if I don't upgrade...