Recent content by bananapehl777

Yes, the ground wire from the front battery to the frame is 0 AWG OFC. That was done as part of the Big 3.

Big 3 was done when I first got the system installed. I would like to report that the dedicated ground between the two batteries did not fully help the issue. The voltage was still very easy to drop during any bass note if played at full volume. This is was observed by the fact that all lights...

So far, after installing a dedicated 0 AWG OFC ground from the front to the rear battery, and grounding my subwoofer amp to directly to the rear battery (using 4 AWG, that's all the amp will accept) I have not had an issue with the transmission shifting weird. I still want to install a super cap...

Hi all, I am having some issues with transmission in my Subaru, and it's actually been a problem since I've had my audio system installed, I just didn't think it was due to the aftermarket audio...

Hi all, I am having some issues with transmission in my Subaru, and it's actually been a problem since I've had my audio system installed, I just didn't think it was due to the aftermarket audio system (I replaced valve body and have done countless fluid changes, had it diagnosed by dealers and...

Thank you for that info. I am a bit confused on how I could run that closed loop set up that you mentioned on my car with just two batteries. How would it help my voltage? Car is an 05 Subaru Outback XT (2.5 L 4-Cyl Turbo) Also, UPDATE: This weekend I went through the grounds for both batteries...

The ground is not on the strut mounting bolts, rather it is on the side of the housing wall. Like this. (This is not my car, just an example). On mine, when the big 3 was done by a shop they slapped the 0 gauge negative ground wire on top of the factory ground wire, but didn't strip any...

I think the alternator does seem to bog down the motor a bit. When at idle at a light, when the bass hits the rpms do drop a bit and the car shakes a little like the motor is struggling, but they raise back up to correct for it. The factory ground location for the front battery is on the...

Thank you for all the info. I agree the larger crank pulley is not the option. I may try a combination of a slightly smaller alt pulley (if i can find one) and a slight raise in the rpms at idle (I have a program that allows me to do things like set the idle speed). I also noticed just tonight...

What size would you recommend? I worry about belt contact and if overdrive pulleys are compatible with my DC Power alt.

Recently rewired my subwoofers to 1 ohm. Allows my DC Audio 1.2 k to output 1200 W (was only getting 750 W with them at 4 ohms). My mids and highs amp is outputting about 400 W. On the safe side total system power is 1700 W. I have big 3, Interstate MTP-35 in front, and XS Power 3400d next to...

It is a DC Power 270 XP, it is about 3 years old though.

Hopefully everything is fine, but just making sure I've covered all my bases. I've got a DC Audio 1.2K with 2 LvL 3 15s wired at 1 ohm. My mids & highs amp is the discontinued 1000.5 IQ series from Kicker. Not sure what it's wired too but is not putting out more than 250 W across the 4...

UPDATE: Added an XS Power 3400D AGM to my brand new Interstate MTP 35. Seems to have mostly resolved the headlight dimming issue. At an idle tho, the RPMS will drop when the bass hits full tilt, but I am assuming this is normal, similar to when cooling fans turn on ect. But after they drop, it...