Recent content by Andy Somnifac

I have a Valet 712T keyless entry system installed in my 2000 Toyota MR2. The issue that I am experiencing is this: If I exit the vehicle and wait for both doors to close before locking the car with the remote fob, the fob will unlock the doors as designed. However, if I lock the doors with...

Well, even though no one seems too interested, I rerouted the RCAs between the HU and the amp and it lessened the issue to the point that I can live with it. The actual pedal assembly is louder than the click. To run the RCAs an other way would require me to disassemble most of the car's...

You can tap into any switched 12v source I'd imagine, or run a line to the battery through a relay, and control the relay from another switched 12v source.

The post was pointing out that he has the unit grounded SOMEWHERE. It is impossible for it to power on without some kind of ground. If the ground wire is not hooked up, I was suggesting other possibilities to check.

Maybe the wire you have been thinking was the ground isn't really the ground? Unless the unit is getting enough of a ground just by being mounted, or the ground wire just happened to be leaning against/sitting on the chassis and providing a ground source?

Well, ran a ground from the HU and the amp to the neg battery terminal. No change... Any other ideas?

Didn't get a chance to mess with the system this weekend, but have been thinking about it. I read that running the ground straight to the neg post of the battery. I'll run the amp's ground to the neg post too if nothing comes of this. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Just messing around during a little breather from work, I pulled on of the tail lights from the car. The interference from the turn signal disappears completely, and the interference from the brakes lessens. It of course completely disappears when I remove the other tail light. So, it seems that...

Well, I just ran a dedicated line between the battery and the HU's 12v constant. Unfortunately there was no change... I guess the next option is to run another line from the battery to the 12v keyed, via a relay. And maybe I'll have to poke around at my grounds again, even though they seem to...

Ah, two power inputs alters my position. Both fused @ 250 amp should be fine. If it were one input, split between two fuses wired in parallel, I'd stick with my original answer.

No, buy a 500 amp fuse. Wired in series, you would still have one of them blow @ a 250 amp load. Wired in parallel, you theoretically have a 500 amp load capability, but @ a 500 amp load it assumes the resistance on each side of the circuit is equal. A small variance and one of them will blow...

Thanks for the input. I guess my plan of attack will to first wire the 12v constant for the HU directly to the battery. If that doesn't solve the issue, I'll run a line between the battery and the 12v keyed, using a relay and some other 12v keyed source to trigger the relay (maybe even the 12v...

ARSkemp, Just to make sure I am following what you're saying, did you add a relay, run from some other 12v switched source, and a lead from the battery to the relay, and to your accessories (amps, equalizer)? Or did you run it to your HU? I'd imagine this would further isolate the HU against...

Thanks guys. I'll run a fused line straight to the battery. 14 gauge wire be proper in your opinions?

Hey everyone, I have recently installed an Eclipse AVN2210P Mk II in my 2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder. So far I love the unit. I only have big issue at the moment, and it's not even that big of an issue. I get interference when stepping on the brake pedal or using turn signals. The setup is as...