What would you do

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The coupling of a port or duct to the air inside the enclosure allows the subwoofer system to take advantage of the work being done by the rear of the woofer cone to reinforce the low-frequency response.
 
2 more questions

1. Would you pay the extra money for the Russian birch wood?

2. The subs call for 2 cubic feet of air space each witch would be 4 cubic feet but the box is 3.25 cubic feet would that be okay?
They will slamm just fine as the enclosure will be tuned properly and set up as it should for trunk space/ subs Rear/Port rear. You do not have the space for 2.0 per sub with the dimensions you gave me.Youd have to make your own enclosure or have one built specifically for the space given up. Be prepared to have some serious rattles out of the trunk as well as the rest of the car if not prepped and deadened. they are going to serve some justice on some power.
 
The coupling of a port or duct to the air inside the enclosure allows the subwoofer system to take advantage of the work being done by the rear of the woofer cone to reinforce the low-frequency response.
Okay so I want the subs to face the hatch but I want my port to face in to the car so that when I have the seats down (witch is 90% of the time) it can pull the air from the inside the car since the trunk would have air you think gp could do that?
 
They will slamm just fine as the enclosure will be tuned properly and set up as it should for trunk space/ subs Rear/Port rear. You do not have the space for 2.0 per sub with the dimensions you gave me.Youd have to make your own enclosure or have one built specifically for the space given up. Be prepared to have some serious rattles out of the trunk as well as the rest of the car if not prepped and deadened. they are going to serve some justice on some power.
Okay cool thank you so much for your help I just asked dome a question if you wanna answer to but that will be my last question for now thank you so much
 
Okay so I want the subs to face the hatch but I want my port to face in to the car so that when I have the seats down (witch is 90% of the time) it can pull the air from the inside the car since the trunk would have air you think gp could do that?
In trunk space. Subs rear Port rear is going to yield the best performance from my experiencing other than porting through the rear deck at the rear of the windshield in a closed in trunk space., But Email or call them and they should be able to make some adjustments,. It may cost a bit more for the customizing of the port direction and build out. Keep it simple and keep cost down. The enclosure i recommended will slamm its azz off on the correct power for the supply for the demand. In one my Xcab trucks that enclosure and a pair of the DVC2 ohm subs 2 a final 2 ohm load with those HDX 3 12s oin approx 3k(maybe a hair more) will make my kidneys hurt after a bit
 
Okay so I want the subs to face the hatch but I want my port to face in to the car so that when I have the seats down (witch is 90% of the time) it can pull the air from the inside the car since the trunk would have air you think gp could do that?

More specific to how it couples into a room rather than a car. It's not a game changer, preferable on the same side, not the only option. So, as stated, obstructions or other considerations may dictate this. As long as the vent have at least their width from an opposing wall, should be fine. A 4" wide vent should be between 4" and 6" min. from an opposing wall or the wall starts to act like an extension of the vent.
 
In trunk space. Subs rear Port rear is going to yield the best performance from my experiencing other than porting through the rear deck at the rear of the windshield in a closed in trunk space., But Email or call them and they should be able to make some adjustments,. It may cost a bit more for the customizing of the port direction and build out. Keep it simple and keep cost down. The enclosure i recommended will slamm its azz off on the correct power for the supply for the demand. In one my Xcab trucks that enclosure and a pair of the DVC2 ohm subs 2 a final 2 ohm load with those HDX 3 12s oin approx 3k(maybe a hair more) will make my kidneys hurt after a bit
Okay so just leave box has is and do the 31hz tuned or 35 hz tuned and call it a day
 
Okay cool thank you so much for your help I just asked dome a question if you wanna answer to but that will be my last question for now thank you so much
Ask all the questions you need/want. We all are here to help as much as we can and learn from each others experiences. Thats what this forum is all about. Trying to help others. Its up to the individual to to accept the recommendations /ect. or not
 
Okay so just leave box has is and do the 31hz tuned or 35 hz tuned and call it a day
Id do the one I recommended.. 31HTZ enclosure. It will allow you to play some music in the 28s and on up at times towards the 50s. You will not be playing @31 Htz all day every day, but sure nice to get down on some lower music some times . All music it different. Youll know and understand when its time to cool it down and give your subs a break
 
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Mr FaceCaser

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