What would you do

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GP Audio Glue And Screw enclosures are some of the best enclosures I use and have put together for several others,and affordable and easy enough to put together with screws,silicone and or LocTite bond, a drill or impact drill and patience with a little space to do it. if you can read a Childs coloring book.. you should be able to match up A to A and B to B. Excellent basic enclosures to put together, and you finish the enclosure to your liking, or clear coat it and be done with it or not/ up to you
Should I do the gp elite enclosure or should I just do the gp normal enclosure
 
Should I do the gp elite enclosure or should I just do the gp normal enclosure
What funds are you willing to spend? What subs? Make and model? What space are you willing to give up LxWxH? Trunk cabin or ? Do you want to see the baskets or do your even care? Either should serve well, as long as it meets specs, and your criteria. I care more about performance than looks myself.
 
What funds are you willing to spend? What subs? Make and model? What space are you willing to give up LxWxH? Trunk cabin or ? Do you want to see the baskets or do your even care? Either should serve well, as long as it meets specs, and your criteria. I care more about performance than looks myself.
So the elite box is to much but the standard box will do my subs I'm using are Sundown UV2 12" the Max space of the trunk would 34" W x 18" H x 22" L
 
I priced out the box you'll need, with a double baffle and (2) 12"x12"plexi windows - about $469. Seems like a lot more money and you could use it to insert 2" round stock braces front to back, etc. Those are sorta for show, no?
Not a fan of inserting windows and the like that just increase the cost and weaken the structure. Personal preference. It's only money, right?

If you do go for the elite, I would skip the plexi option, the box is a stiffer box and would be better, probably worth the extra coin. You could get the double baffle version of the regular box and stiffen it up using 2x2's and corner braces too, lot less money.
 
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In one of my older 93 Integras I had some empty 10" Bazooka tubes i placed some older Audiobahn AW1008T subs in and they worked perfect for me? Less weight, less space taken up and fit great and performed fantastic on some power for me and gave me some room for my mids and highs amp and extra power supply
 
I priced out the box you'll need, with a double baffle and (2) 12"x12"plexi windows - about $469. Seems like a lot more money and you could use it to insert 2" round stock braces front to back, etc. Those are sorta for show, no?
Not a fan of inserting windows and the like that just increase the cost and weaken the structure. Personal preference. It's only money, right?

If you do go for the elite, I would skip the plexi ioption, the box is a stiffer box and would be better, probably worth the extra coin.
Your right I don't want the plexi glass I was looking at the elite but my problem is I heard that the cabinet grade wood is alot better witch without plexi glass would be $509 before tax. The other thing is with the elite box the subs are facing up when I want them facing the trunk in my opinion it looks better and I would do a double baffle with a flush mount on either of the boxes only thing is the russian Brich wood worth the extra money?
 
So the elite box is to much but the standard box will do my subs I'm using are Sundown UV2 12" the Max space of the trunk would 34" W x 18" H x 22" L
This is the one Id choose for these subs in that space. Dual Compact 12" with double baffle and @31Htz. Not a whole lot different than what I have for my older Soundqubed HDX12s. I also have a 4.0cuft enclosure tuned to 32HTZ for a pair of tens and 12s. The measurements are not correct on the website when entering, but are correct on the tuning as youy scroll down. Call or Email before ordering so that they cut and make correctly so the enclosure FDITS!~!

 
This is the one Id choose for these subs in that space. Dual Compact 12" with double baffle and @31Htz. Not a whole lot different than what I have for my older Soundqubed HDX12s. I also have a 4.0cuft enclosure tuned to 32HTZ for a pair of tens and 12s. The measurements are not correct on the website when entering, but are correct on the tuning as youy scroll down. Call or Email before ordering so that they cut and make correctly so the enclosure FDITS!~!

Specs on that enclosure I recommend that will fit juyst fine

31hz

Box External Dimensions
Width x Height x Depth
32.00" x 14.00" x 20.46"
Material Thickness0.73"
Net Internal Volume3.25 ft3
Tuning Frequency31 Hz
Port Area35.75 inch2
Port Inlet
Width x Height
2.85" x 12.54"
Port Length23.54"
 
This is the one Id choose for these subs in that space. Dual Compact 12" with double baffle and @31Htz. Not a whole lot different than what I have for my older Soundqubed HDX12s. I also have a 4.0cuft enclosure tuned to 32HTZ for a pair of tens and 12s. The measurements are not correct on the website when entering, but are correct on the tuning as youy scroll down. Call or Email before ordering so that they cut and make correctly so the enclosure FDITS!~!

2 more questions

1. Would you pay the extra money for the Russian birch wood?

2. The subs call for 2 cubic feet of air space each witch would be 4 cubic feet but the box is 3.25 cubic feet would that be okay?
 
Your right I don't want the plexi glass I was looking at the elite but my problem is I heard that the cabinet grade wood is alot better witch without plexi glass would be $509 before tax. The other thing is with the elite box the subs are facing up when I want them facing the trunk in my opinion it looks better and I would do a double baffle with a flush mount on either of the boxes only thing is the russian Brich wood worth the extra money
Many opinions on the 13 layer birch ply. I like MDF unless weight is an issue. The birch is lighter for sure. I like the way that MDF finishes up, regardless of how you finish it. IOn some instance the heavier MDF is a bonus as it is slightly more dense, MDF is 680–830 kg/m3 and birch core plywood is 680-700 kg/m3.

Unless you're needing less weight and want to finish in a wood-type grain finish, MDF is preferable. I would advise shooting the subs into the rear of the hatch. I also like to vent out the mounting baffle so that proper coupling occurs.
 
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Many opinions on the 13 layer birch ply. I like MDF unless weight is an issue. The birch is lighter for sure. I like the way that MDF finishes up, regardless of how you finish it. IOn some instance the heavier MDF is a bonus as it is slightly more dense, MDF is 680–830 kg/m3 and birch core plywood is 680-700 kg/m3.

Unless you're needing less wight and want to finish in a wood-type grain finish, MDF is preferable. I would advise shooting the subs into the rear of the hatch. I also like to vent out the mounting baffle so that proper coupling occurs.
What do you mean but vent out the mounting baffle?
 
Your right I don't want the plexi glass I was looking at the elite but my problem is I heard that the cabinet grade wood is alot better witch without plexi glass would be $509 before tax. The other thing is with the elite box the subs are facing up when I want them facing the trunk in my opinion it looks better and I would do a double baffle with a flush mount on either of the boxes only thing is the russian Brich wood worth the extra money?
Its only worth the money to me if you want to spend it. Its not that much of a weight savings of enclosures of maybe a few Lbs. To me its not worth thge Extra price unless you want to pay for it and oir it makes a much easier way to stain or paint the enclosure. Just my $0.03 cents
 
the GP's vent out the same baffle as the subs are mounted on. Unless there obstructions to consider, best always to vent out on the same baffle as the woofers are mounted on.
Okay that makes sense? Now I have an idea of what a baffle is but what exactly is it? Just so I'm understanding. Sorry for all the questions.
 
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