Sound Deadening Question : Door panels

[Rudy 10+ year member]

I'll check out that aluminum flashing then, I live about 2 minutes from home depot and lowes. Is there a specific name for it or will they know what I'm talking about if I tell them aluminum flashing?

In the roofing department. Comes in rolls. They should certainly know what it is.

 

[spoonraker 10+ year member]

got any pictures of this process?

 

[CrazedCat 10+ year member]

Just use hardboard...its rigid and easy to cut to shape.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

Silicon sandwiched flashing should offer a pretty dead panel that won't get ruined my moisture.

Hardboard.... not so much.

But... you know, do what you wish.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

got any pictures of this process?

Door with some deadening and largest hole open.

Back side of cut out pieces already sandwiched together, with deadeding on back.

Aluminum mounted (ignore added liquid deadener - nothing to do with this process

Deadener added to flashing. Looks like there are gaps, but there is silicone around the edges that makes it tight as a drum.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I like to use [painted] wood when i can. If the panel is flat all around the hole/opening, the wood will work. I prefer it over the alm flashing because its more rigid. It really seemed to stiffen up the whole panel on my Ram's doors. But the flashing works better when you need to contour it to fit the bending shape of your door panel (like Don appears to have done).

I'm gonna be opening up those doors here pretty soon, I'll see how the wood is holding up. From the inside, it all appears fine. I live in a pretty dry climate though too.

 

[spoonraker 10+ year member]

Yeah I'm going with the aluminum for sure. The biggest hole I have is really awkwardly shaped. There are also three other significant sized holes. My doors are like swiss cheese. Oh and thanks for the pics Rudy, helps me visualize what you're saying a lot.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

I like to use [painted] wood when i can. If the panel is flat all around the hole/opening, the wood will work. I prefer it over the alm flashing because its more rigid. It really seemed to stiffen up the whole panel on my Ram's doors. But the flashing works better when you need to contour it to fit the bending shape of your door panel (like Don appears to have done).
I'm gonna be opening up those doors here pretty soon, I'll see how the wood is holding up. From the inside, it all appears fine. I live in a pretty dry climate though too.

That's one of the nice things about it - very easy to bend and shape by hand. Two pieces shaped and siliconed together are surprisingly rigid and dead.

Is Pismo the same place as Pismo Beach? Spent a few days there 3 years ago and had a great time.

 

[PatFitz9 10+ year member]

you'll need tin snips to cut that also. wear gloves, that leaves a sharp edge.

 

[spoonraker 10+ year member]

I have some pretty heavy duty kitchen shears that I think will do the trick. They can cut 4ga wire clean, I think they'll make quick work of it.

 

[spoonraker 10+ year member]

There were so many large holes in my door that I just scrapped the idea of filling the holes. Instead I just took advantage of the large access holes and double layered the entire outer door skin and then put a single layer over the inner door skin and covered a couple of the smaller holes.

Sounds like I'm knocking on a solid core wood door now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I noticed a huge reduction in road noise, with the door panels off and the deadener on, it sounds quieter than it did with the door panels on with no deadener. Once I put a layer of closed cell foam on the panels and reattach them it should be nice and quiet. It made me realize that I need to take out my seats and rip up all the carpet and deaden the crap out of the entire firewall and floor though

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

There were so many large holes in my door that I just scrapped the idea of filling the holes. Instead I just took advantage of the large access holes and double layered the entire outer door skin and then put a single layer over the inner door skin and covered a couple of the smaller holes.
Sounds like I'm knocking on a solid core wood door now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I noticed a huge reduction in road noise, with the door panels off and the deadener on, it sounds quieter than it did with the door panels on with no deadener. Once I put a layer of closed cell foam on the panels and reattach them it should be nice and quiet. It made me realize that I need to take out my seats and rip up all the carpet and deaden the crap out of the entire firewall and floor though

Funny how that works. Quiet one area and you can hear how noisy the other areas are.

 

[spoonraker 10+ year member]

Yeah I'm noticing more of the wind noise now than the road noise. Hopefully the closed cell foam takes care of that.

I have 80 square feet and after doing both doors and using a couple sheets on the trunk lid which covered about 75% of it, I've still got a TON left. I'm going to have to get creative with where I put this stuff.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

Yeah I'm noticing more of the wind noise now than the road noise. Hopefully the closed cell foam takes care of that.
I have 80 square feet and after doing both doors and using a couple sheets on the trunk lid which covered about 75% of it, I've still got a TON left. I'm going to have to get creative with where I put this stuff.

You won't think you have too much once you start working on the floor and the roof.