Kicker Key200.4 Amp+DSP with STOCK speakers on '24 Ford Maverick?

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MavRush

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Will soon be getting a '24 Ford Maverick XL base trim (without the B&O premium system). Looking to improve the sound for a maximum budget of $500, including install cost. My biggest issue with stock systems like this is NOT the clarity of sound, but rather the horrible imbalance of the frequencies. They sound like there are huge gaps in the frequency range and, because of this, they lack fullness and usually have one particular area that is way too strong--even with every combination of EQ adjustment and zoning on the head unit. In the case of my last car, it was the high frequency that was so harsh on my ears that I literally couldn't listen to certain songs.

The most common advice online is to start by replacing the speakers. However, I have a few issues with this. Firstly, I tried this on my last car. I replaced the stock speakers of a 2019 Elantra with some decent Infinity Reference components in front and coaxials in back. Even had a Pioneer power pack amp installed. The result was not much improvement. Sure, the clarity of the sound improved, but the BIGGEST problem was still there: the massively imbalanced highs, mids, and lows.

When I think back to my first car, I recall replacing only the head unit and leaving the stock speakers. The sound was greatly improved. Way more improved than what I got by replacing only the speakers on my 2019 Elantra. I think what's going on these days is that factory HUs have so much sound processing built into them (to match the stock speakers) that you're not going to get much improvement with aftermarket speakers. As they say, speakers are only as good as the sound coming into them. And if the factory HU has sound that is heavily processed, speakers won't do much to change that.

This leads me to the point of this thread. I'm considering doing as my ONLY upgrade...a Kicker Key200.4 amp which includes automatic DSP. What this is supposed to do is balance out the frequencies going into the speakers so they are more flat and workable. It's also supposed to resolve timing issues based on ear position in reference to the speakers. I've been reading in some forums that even stock speakers sound pretty good with this amp+DSP combination. Some have said it made a bigger difference than speakers alone. I think if we were living in the 1990s or earlier, I wouldn't say this. But nowadays, I think the best way to START upgrading a sound system is with an amp+DSP combo. If stock speakers receive a little bit more CLEAN power (from the amp), and the tonal frequences are BALANCED (from the DSP), I would think that they could sound very good. If there are any sound professionals on here, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks.
 
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Will soon be getting a '24 Ford Maverick XL base trim (without the B&O premium system). Looking to improve the sound for a maximum budget of $500, including install cost. My biggest issue with stock systems like this is NOT the clarity of sound, but rather the horrible imbalance of the frequencies. They sound like there are huge gaps in the frequency range and, because of this, they lack fullness and usually have one particular area that is way too strong--even with every combination of EQ adjustment and zoning on the head unit. In the case of my last car, it was the high frequency that was so harsh on my ears that I literally couldn't listen to certain songs.

The most common advice online is to start by replacing the speakers. However, I have a few issues with this. Firstly, I tried this on my last car. I replaced the stock speakers of a 2019 Elantra with some decent Infinity Reference components in front and coaxials in back. Even had a Pioneer power pack amp installed. The result was not much improvement. Sure, the clarity of the sound improved, but the BIGGEST problem was still there: the massively imbalanced highs, mids, and lows.

When I think back to my first car, I recall replacing only the head unit and leaving the stock speakers. The sound was greatly improved. Way more improved than what I got by replacing only the speakers on my 2019 Elantra. I think what's going on these days is that factory HUs have so much sound processing built into them (to match the stock speakers) that you're not going to get much improvement with aftermarket speakers. As they say, speakers are only as good as the sound coming into them. And if the factory HU has sound that is heavily processed, speakers won't do much to change that.

This leads me to the point of this thread. I'm considering doing as my ONLY upgrade...a Kicker Key200.4 amp which includes automatic DSP. What this is supposed to do is balance out the frequencies going into the speakers so they are more flat and workable. It's also supposed to resolve timing issues based on ear position in reference to the speakers. I've been reading in some forums that even stock speakers sound pretty good with this amp+DSP combination. Some have said it made a bigger difference than speakers alone. I think if we were living in the 1990s or earlier, I wouldn't say this. But nowadays, I think the best way to START upgrading a sound system is with an amp+DSP combo. If stock speakers receive a little bit more CLEAN power (from the amp), and the tonal frequences are BALANCED (from the DSP), I would think that they could sound very good. If there are any sound professionals on here, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks.
The key amp may help your out but the main issue with factory systems is that the tweeters are tied to the midbass without a real crossover. And they more often than not set the tweeter very high 3.5khz typically and let the midbass run up as high as possible.

Main problem with this is the lack of midbass because they raise the hpf on the midbass to lower intermodal distortion.

You put the bass back and things get muddy quickly especially with the fact that those speakers handle bass poorly.

My advice is to get a semi budget set of components and run them active off of the key200.4 and add a small sub system. A single 8 is common for your truck to fill in the lower range.

You could even do something super budget like a set of silverflutes playing 80-500hz and a set of faital pro 3inch mids playing 500-20000hz and ditch the tweeter entirely. Most of us can't hear beyond 17khz anyway on a good day

I'd also suggest spending a good chunk of money on sound deadening
 
The key amp may help your out but the main issue with factory systems is that the tweeters are tied to the midbass without a real crossover. And they more often than not set the tweeter very high 3.5khz typically and let the midbass run up as high as possible.

Main problem with this is the lack of midbass because they raise the hpf on the midbass to lower intermodal distortion.

You put the bass back and things get muddy quickly especially with the fact that those speakers handle bass poorly.

My advice is to get a semi budget set of components and run them active off of the key200.4 and add a small sub system. A single 8 is common for your truck to fill in the lower range.

You could even do something super budget like a set of silverflutes playing 80-500hz and a set of faital pro 3inch mids playing 500-20000hz and ditch the tweeter entirely. Most of us can't hear beyond 17khz anyway on a good day

I'd also suggest spending a good chunk of money on sound deadening
But wouldn’t the DSP solve the issue of exaggerated tweeters even if they’re connected to components in same line?

Another idea which I might be totally stupid with but it’ll ask it anyway: how would it sound if I removed the tweeters entirely? The car speakers are mid-door level, not way down.
 
But wouldn’t the DSP solve the issue of exaggerated tweeters even if they’re connected to components in same line?

Another idea which I might be totally stupid with but it’ll ask it anyway: how would it sound if I removed the tweeters entirely? The car speakers are mid-door level, not way down.
Not really to attenuating the tweeters, unless fully active. On a set of passive comps you will have passive crossovers to contend with dividing the frequencies, attenuation will be equal on each side to both the midbass and the tweeters.

Removing the tweeters is a terrible idea, don't even consider it. if you're going to piece it together, get an inexpensive (real, full featured) DSP that you can build on like the Dayton DSP-408 - $165


A USB-C mic to test it that you can use with your phone or laptop $50


- Or -

The 3.5mm version to use with phone or laptop - $27


I've got a BNIB a set of 6.5" NVX "X" series comps 6.5" for the doors and tweeter's in the dash $120 shipped in the cont US.


A 4 channel amplifier so you can go active - $125


Pair of these to BASS blockers to protect your tweeters $10


Sound deadening for the doors and floors - $65


Not bad and in range of $475 to $525 for everything and the ability to add later as you will still have 4 channels you can use for a set of rear coaxials and a sub should you elect to go that route.
 
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I understand and can’t disagree with all your posts. But honestly I am only looking to make a single, one-and-done upgrade on my stock system. And it has to be well under $500. LOL, I pay lots of child support. Anyway, because the EQ balance is so dreadful, to me that is the PRIMARY PROBLEM. I don’t want to change speakers as my only upgrade because that just means I’d be clarifying a horribly unbalanced signal, which does zero to solve the problem. And I heard of a car audio shop which, at least on certain newer cars, recommends an amp+DSP as the first change of anything.
 
With something like this you could go active too.


- OR -


eXclon-t buy!
 
For a tweeter, and you're on a budget, you can get bass blockers. It is not the best route, but they will work. Just make sure your installer checks the ohms of the tweeters. The ohms will affect the high pass frequency of the bass blocker.
 
But wouldn’t the DSP solve the issue of exaggerated tweeters even if they’re connected to components in same line?

Another idea which I might be totally stupid with but it’ll ask it anyway: how would it sound if I removed the tweeters entirely? The car speakers are mid-door level, not way down.
The dsp can eq down the bright tweeters but with the factory tweeters being tied to the woofers it is quite difficult to get a properly imaged sound stage since time aligning one driver affects the other. Same with eq. You may decide you need to cut 4500hz on the tweeters but cutting will also cut the same range from the midbass.

Honestly if the tweeters are overly bright I'd suggest swapping them with a silk dome of some sort. Or you could swap the polarity of the passenger side to tone them down through cancelation.

A dsp amp is a great investment. But they are typically expensive. The alpine optim8 is one that seems to be performing well and if you reran each speak wire from driver to amp you could gain individual speaker control without swapping speakers.

Since it is an 8 channel dsp amp you could use ch 1,2 for tweeters, 3,4 for midbass, 5,6 for rears, and 7,8 you can run to each coil on a dual voice coil sub assuming it was a relatively low power sub. An adire koda would be a contender, or an alpine type s or jl w3 just to name a few.

There are plenty of options in car audio nut typically the really cheap ones aren't going to impress and you usually end up swapping them in the long term
 
Not really to attenuating the tweeters, unless fully active. On a set of passive comps you will have passive crossovers to contend with dividing the frequencies, attenuation will be equal on each side to both the midbass and the tweeters.

Removing the tweeters is a terrible idea, don't even consider it. if you're going to piece it together, get an inexpensive (real, full featured) DSP that you can build on like the Dayton DSP-408 - $165


A USB-C mic to test it that you can use with your phone or laptop $50


- Or -

The 3.5mm version to use with phone or laptop - $27


I've got a BNIB a set of 6.5" NVX "X" series comps 6.5" for the doors and tweeter's in the dash $120 shipped in the cont US.


A 4 channel amplifier so you can go active - $125


Pair of these to BASS blockers to protect your tweeters $10


Sound deadening for the doors and floors - $65


Not bad and in range of $475 to $525 for everything and the ability to add later as you will still have 4 channels you can use for a set of rear coaxials and a sub should you elect to go that route.
Nvx came out with a new set of x series that look phenomenal as well.

That recoil amp might be a bit too much power for a new car audio person though
 
Nvx came out with a new set of x series that look phenomenal as well.

That recoil amp might be a bit too much power for a new car audio person though
Yep, that will mark the third iteration of teh X series. i figured that was in the loop as they have been running out of stock on the last version. The original "X" series was phenomenal, basically an NVX version of the SB acoustics offerings. This new lone looks a lot like Dynavox, nice looking stuff for sure. Their "X" series has always performed above it's price level.

As for that amp, there is another in the line up, I'm always inclined to get more than I need. For $86, this might be better for the OP.

 
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MavRush

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