Battery related install

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Kram Larbac

CarAudio.com Newbie
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Hello all! I will try my best to keep this as short and simple as possible. I have done many installs over the years. No, I don’t mean to sound like I’m a know it all big-headed idiot that is not open to hear any comments or advice. I just meant I have a bit of knowledge in the field. I recently got a “new to me” ‘20 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. It has the basic 6-speaker sound system. No factory amp/sub package. Also, it has the two-battery operation. The “main” and the secondary for that ever-popular start/stop feature. I will withhold my opinion of this feature! I plan on installing a wiring harness, an active LOC, three amps, a component setup for the front, new speakers in rear doors,and a sub enclosure. The issue is, due to a disability, I cannot bend, squat, twist, basically become a contortionist for long periods of time. Not saying I am unable to do this myself, I just need more time to do it. What used to take hours or a weekend to do will now take days. My question is, how can I avoid (at all costs) any problems with re-connecting the batteries? No start, reprogramming, tow vehicle to dealership (wifey might have issue and we can’t have this!) etc.. I have saw that people who have done audio upgrades on this type of vehicle said no “memory” backup module is needed due to the vehicle being able to remember settings. However, I am sure there is a time limit to this feature. Any help would be greatly appreciated and a big thanks in advance for your time and support in this matter. I love music, loud, clean, crisp and clear. I also enjoy happy marriage. Can’t a man have both??
 
I would surmise that if the rear battery(ies) are isolated from the front, either by the OEM setup or by using an isolator, you should be fine. Have you checked into the various Jeep forums to see if there is more specific information on this very specific scenario?
 
Doing the Big3 and a secondary battery will be beneficial for supply for the demand in most cases ,yet depends on how much power /amplifiers/amplifiers to be installed,and size of existing alternator as well as the battery size and type under the hood. Id deff be looking into all Class D with a voltage of 9v min on up. There is nothing that speaks of Clean , clear,and any type of sound quality in a Jeep with all the road noise this vehicle introduces within the cabin from severe road noise,without some funds spent on deadening.
 
I would surmise that if the rear battery(ies) are isolated from the front, either by the OEM setup or by using an isolator, you should be fine. Have you checked into the various Jeep forums to see if there is more specific information on this very specific scenario?
Doxquzme, I think that if I were to disconnect the negative terminal from both batteries each time I went to resume the install, that would be most effective. I have not checked any other forums as yet but that is a great suggestion! Thanks for your help and advice!!
 
I would surmise that if the rear battery(ies) are isolated from the front, either by the OEM setup or by using an isolator, you should be fine. Have you checked into the various Jeep forums to see if there is more specific information on this very specific scenario?
Doxquzme, Upon further thought I believe I will disconnect the negative posts on both batteries each time I resume the install as opposed to leaving them off for the whole job. I have not checked other forums as yet, but that is a great suggestion! Thanks for your time and idea!
 
Doing the Big3 and a secondary battery will be beneficial for supply for the demand in most cases ,yet depends on how much power /amplifiers/amplifiers to be installed,and size of existing alternator as well as the battery size and type under the hood. Id deff be looking into all Class D with a voltage of 9v min on up. There is nothing that speaks of Clean , clear,and any type of sound quality in a Jeep with all the road noise this vehicle introduces within the cabin from severe road noise,without some funds spent on deadening.
Audiobaun, The total watts from all three amps equal about 1500 rms. Two of the amps are class D, with the smaller 200 watt being class BD I believe. My alternator is 180 amp. I previously had this same setup in my previous suv with a 150 amp alternator with no issues for approx 4.5 years. I never performed the big 3 or installed an additional battery. I had forgotten to mention that I will be installing deadening material. That stuff makes a world of difference! I have also decided to just disconnect the negative posts every time I resume work on the install. I do believe that will be most beneficial on the batteries as well. Thanks for your help and advice!!
 
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Kram Larbac

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