2008 Elantra system upgrade.

[MarkJohnson]

You'll need to find out where things are set as far as x-overs go. I think you should use the deck since you can't access the amps easily, but you first need to pull out the amp and make sure that the x-overs are set to "full." Then you can set them on the deck and adjust as needed.

Sounds good. I'll make sure to pull the amp and set it to full. I may even have the amps mounted in the truck for easy access.

Most manufacturers have the same power ratings for their 10" and 12" models, so that's not an issue. With the 12", you have the luxury of more cone area as well as a bigger box, which add to the output. What's your budget for a sub? Also, you're committed to a custom box, correct? Work that into the budget.

Under $500 for sub, so I'll have money left over for a custom box, wiring kit, and move both amps to the truck where they belong. They were supposed to be installed there in the first place. But I sadly found the two biggest idiots at a new stero store and had to return several time to have things fixed and got tired of going back and just left them under the seats.

Anyway, if I'm going to get a new sub, I want to try to get the best sounding sub I can. I'm not sure about the Flatlyne you posted as there doesn't seem to be any info on google about it. I was looking for DB rating or similar, but couldn't find anything at all.

I did find the JL Audio I listed above as I've had pretty good luck with them in the past and it's also at the stereo store.

I will contact the guy above on a custom box when I decide on the speaker.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Sounds good. I'll make sure to pull the amp and set it to full. I may even have the amps mounted in the truck for easy access.


Under $500 for sub, so I'll have money left over for a custom box, wiring kit, and move both amps to the truck where they belong. They were supposed to be installed there in the first place. But I sadly found the two biggest idiots at a new stero store and had to return several time to have things fixed and got tired of going back and just left them under the seats.

Anyway, if I'm going to get a new sub, I want to try to get the best sounding sub I can. I'm not sure about the Flatlyne you posted as there doesn't seem to be any info on google about it. I was looking for DB rating or similar, but couldn't find anything at all.

I did find the JL Audio I listed above as I've had pretty good luck with them in the past and it's also at the stereo store.

I will contact the guy above on a custom box when I decide on the speaker.

The Flatlyne is a good SQ sub. So is the W6.

If you get the W6 DO NOT get the box made from listed recommendations.

 

[fly_marlin]

Sounds good. I'll make sure to pull the amp and set it to full. I may even have the amps mounted in the truck for easy access.


Under $500 for sub, so I'll have money left over for a custom box, wiring kit, and move both amps to the truck where they belong. They were supposed to be installed there in the first place. But I sadly found the two biggest idiots at a new stero store and had to return several time to have things fixed and got tired of going back and just left them under the seats.

Anyway, if I'm going to get a new sub, I want to try to get the best sounding sub I can. I'm not sure about the Flatlyne you posted as there doesn't seem to be any info on google about it. I was looking for DB rating or similar, but couldn't find anything at all.

I did find the JL Audio I listed above as I've had pretty good luck with them in the past and it's also at the stereo store.

I will contact the guy above on a custom box when I decide on the speaker.

NoLoud4U has a thread about the W6 - how much are you able to get yours for? As far as specs, don't concern yourself with it too much. Efficiency is the last thing you should be looking at. Flatlyne is a good sounding sub, though not too many people have them. Reason JL and RF stuff isn't liked much here is because of the prices. They cost a lot and you can have something sound pretty good for way less.

Other subs to look at: Image Dynamics IDMax or IDQ, Arc Audio Black, B2 audio reference, NoLoud4U says he likes the DD 2500 series, SSA Gcon. Maybe even Dayton Ultimax.

 

[MarkJohnson]

It's good, from everything I've read, it blends with the front stage very well. Are you stuck on buying mainstream?

Not necessarily, just local store has it and I can check it our before buying. A better return policy as well. But I'm still undecided.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Not necessarily, just local store has it and I can check it our before buying. A better return policy as well. But I'm still undecided.

What all do you have around you?

Check for a Hertz dealer. That could be a good move. The HX line is nice. The Mille line is very nice

 

[MarkJohnson]

I ended up getting the B2 audio reference 12REF. Now the custom box.

 

[fly_marlin]

[quote name='MarkJohnson']I ended up getting the B2 audio reference 12REF. Now the custom box.[/QUOTE]

Sweet! You'll love the sub, I promise. Here's the email directly from B2 regarding the box:

2.825 cubes net
3.666 cubes including ports & subs

Area of port 32.54 sq.in
Length 31.4 inches.

Tuned @ 30 Hz

Hit up @CSCStang, he'll do you right.

 

[MarkJohnson]

I'm having an issue with my electrical in my car. Lately my battery can't seem to stay charged. When idling it gets so low it causes my fan to go very low and on a couple of occasions caused my stereo to shut off like it's not getting enough power.

Yesterday when I started my car it barely turned over, but started. I didn't leave any lights on and my truck did open from my remote as what usually happens.

Anyway, I checked my batter when with my car off and it registers 12.75 and 14.20 when running. It seems fine but it just drops low when driving after it's warmed up. I usually always have my lights on and lately my air conditioner on high as we're having a heat wave and this may be sending power consumption over the top or stressing the engine at idle?

It is possible my stereo is pulling too much power? My amplifier is set to 4 ohms for my sub and pulls up to 40o0 watts. My 4 speakers are pulling around 300 watts. that around 700 watts rms. I don't think it's that high most of the time as I have maybe half volume at most.

How can I tell if it's my alternator, battery or maybe a short? Maybe just old engine needs tuned so it will idle a little higher?

Thanks for any help

-=Mark=-

PS, I got my B2 Audio sub today and my box is starting assembly today and should be done soon.

 

[fly_marlin]

I'm having an issue with my electrical in my car. Lately my battery can't seem to stay charged. When idling it gets so low it causes my fan to go very low and on a couple of occasions caused my stereo to shut off like it's not getting enough power.
Yesterday when I started my car it barely turned over, but started. I didn't leave any lights on and my truck did open from my remote as what usually happens.

Anyway, I checked my batter when with my car off and it registers 12.75 and 14.20 when running. It seems fine but it just drops low when driving after it's warmed up. I usually always have my lights on and lately my air conditioner on high as we're having a heat wave and this may be sending power consumption over the top or stressing the engine at idle?

It is possible my stereo is pulling too much power? My amplifier is set to 4 ohms for my sub and pulls up to 40o0 watts. My 4 speakers are pulling around 300 watts. that around 700 watts rms. I don't think it's that high most of the time as I have maybe half volume at most.

How can I tell if it's my alternator, battery or maybe a short? Maybe just old engine needs tuned so it will idle a little higher?

Thanks for any help

-=Mark=-

PS, I got my B2 Audio sub today and my box is starting assembly today and should be done soon.

Here we have AAA and they test the alt and the battery. I'm sure you can do it yourself if you know how.

 

[MarkJohnson]

Here's some picture of the ported sub enclosure tuned to 37Hz from CSCStang.

Should be here by Friday if FedEx isn't late as usual.

 

[fly_marlin]

Here's some picture of the ported sub enclosure tuned to 37Hz from CSCStang.
Should be here by Friday if FedEx isn't late as usual.

Let me know how you like it. You're the only other person I've ever known to have this thing.

 

[MarkJohnson]

Sorry for late update, but the sound is very good. However the bass seems too low or something. It sounds like it's freaking out on low notes, kind of a rattling type sound. especially on the radio. Maybe it is the static causing it? or the poor radio signal?

I also can't turn it up past half or my whole car rattles. lol. and it's not that loud, it's just the bass hitting so hard it make every inch of the car rattle.

I don't know if deadening material will even work. It sounds like things aren't even bolted down it rattles so bad. But everything looks tight. I at least see no loosened nuts or bolts.

But in general, it has a good full sound. Doesn't have the punch I wanted though. This has a super deep punch, not the mid punch I was hoping for. Maybe add a mid-bass speaker or fine tune my rear door speakers (6.5)?

 

[fly_marlin]

Sorry for late update, but the sound is very good. However the bass seems too low or something. It sounds like it's freaking out on low notes, kind of a rattling type sound. especially on the radio. Maybe it is the static causing it? or the poor radio signal?
I also can't turn it up past half or my whole car rattles. lol. and it's not that loud, it's just the bass hitting so hard it make every inch of the car rattle.

I don't know if deadening material will even work. It sounds like things aren't even bolted down it rattles so bad. But everything looks tight. I at least see no loosened nuts or bolts.

But in general, it has a good full sound. Doesn't have the punch I wanted though. This has a super deep punch, not the mid punch I was hoping for. Maybe add a mid-bass speaker or fine tune my rear door speakers (6.5)?

I think this is fixable. What is your x-over point for the sub? Are you setting it on the deck or the amp? Please check both to ensure you're not double crossing. Mine hit everything and it's tuned lower than yours, then again I have 2 of them. Also, what's your subsonic filter set to? Not sure what EQ options you have on the deck, but try to play with it and see if you can get the punch you want. Also, what's the LPF set to on your highs? Using the amp x-over or deck?

 

[MarkJohnson]

I think this is fixable. What is your x-over point for the sub?

I keep changing the x-over on my HU and I think it is at 125hz. The lower I set it, the worse it gets. It goes down to 40Hz IIRC.

Are you setting it on the deck or the amp? Please check both to ensure you're not double crossing.

Sadly I can't get access to my amp. It is under my seat and facing the tunnel down the center and is unreadable.

Mine hit everything and it's tuned lower than yours, then again I have 2 of them. Also, what's your subsonic filter set to?

My amp says subsonic filter is 16hz. I don't know if it's adjustable or not.

Not sure what EQ options you have on the deck, but try to play with it and see if you can get the punch you want.

I have a 500Hz option that helps, but from what I've read it needs around 800Hz.

Also, what's the LPF set to on your highs? Using the amp x-over or deck?

I haven't looked. I thought that was taken care of for the sub setting 125Hz? All settings I make are from the HU.

 

[fly_marlin]

It's important that every single setting be set so that you know exactly what it is. You'll need to pull the amps out and make sure:

1. LPF on the alpine is set to the highest possible setting. Also, it has a bass eq with 50Hz center frequency (800Hz is not a sub frequency) -

bumping that up a bit should help

with the thump you're looking for.

2. Set all x-overs on the JL to full, then you can manage them from the deck.

There's just not a way around it, you have to pull the amps out. Otherwise, whatever box/sub you slap in there will be lacking. I see the alpine has a non-adjustable subsonic filter at 15Hz. Not sure if you can, but see if you can do a bandpass on your deck (LPF and HPF for the sub). So that you can cut off even more of the lower frequencies. 15Hz is too low for your box and musical taste.

Once you do the above with the amps, we can start messing with the deck.