2008 Elantra system upgrade.

[MarkJohnson]

I have a 2008 Hyundai Elantra 4-door and want to upgrade my old custom system.

I currently have:

HU - DNX6990HD

Amp1 - JL Audio 4/300 -front and read speakers

Amp2 - Alpine 600 watt single channel for sub

Sub - JL Audio 12" (not sure what model) in generic speaker box from audio store.

Front - JL Audio 6.5" 2-way component (not sure, but top of the line in 2008 or close to that date)

Rear - Pioneer 6.5" 2-way co-axial (not sure the model number, but bought in 2009)

I listen to mostly to 80's speed metal and want that punch. My 12' sub just doesn't put out enough bass, or is it a mid-bass that gives the punch? either way, I can't get enough punch in my music.

As an example of the sound I want, I have some Klipsch 2.1 desktop PC speakers and they rock for speed metal. It has 2 satellite speakers 2-way (horn tweeter and 4" mid range I think) with a 6.5 sub on the floor. I can feel the sub port shoot sound waves against my leg it's pounding so hard.

Any advice on what I need to get a lot of punch out of my system?

Thanks for any help.

-=Mark=-

Click to read more...

 

[fly_marlin]

I have a 2008 Hyundai Elantra 4-door and want to upgrade my old custom system.
I currently have:

HU - DNX6990HD

Amp1 - JL Audio 4/300 -front and read speakers

Amp2 - Alpine 600 watt single channel for sub

Sub - JL Audio 12" (not sure what model) in generic speaker box from audio store.

Front - JL Audio 6.5" 2-way component (not sure, but top of the line in 2008 or close to that date)

Rear - Pioneer 6.5" 2-way co-axial (not sure the model number, but bought in 2009)

I listen to mostly to 80's speed metal and want that punch. My 12' sub just doesn't put out enough bass, or is it a mid-bass that gives the punch? either way, I can't get enough punch in my music.

As an example of the sound I want, I have some Klipsch 2.1 desktop PC speakers and they rock for speed metal. It has 2 satellite speakers 2-way (horn tweeter and 4" mid range I think) with a 6.5 sub on the floor. I can feel the sub port shoot sound waves against my leg it's pounding so hard.

Any advice on what I need to get a lot of punch out of my system?

Thanks for any help.

-=Mark=-

Couple of things:

1. Can you link to a song where you feel your system is most lacking? Perhaps even note the time range in the song where we can hear this.

2. Is your generic sub box ported or sealed?

3. You should pull out the sub and check the version, should be able to tell the voice coil configuration from there as well.

4. Which exact amp model is it?

Just from reading this, my hunch is that the "generic speaker box" is the culprit here. If you sub has dual voice coils, it's also possible it's wired to a higher impedance. If so, you may be able to rewire to a lower one if your amp supports it.

 

[MarkJohnson]

I finally got the info you asked for.

The amplifier is an Alpine V-Power MSP-M650 400 @ 4ohms or 600-watt @ 2ohms mono-amplifier.

The speaker is a JL Audio 12W1v2-4

The speaker enclosure is a sealed box roughly 18" x 18" x 18" I didn't measure it, but there was about 3 inches all around the speaker. I could have swore it was ported. but it wasn't.

I forgot to link a song. Not sure which one as my Klipsch sub went out and I'm replacing the foam ring around the sub. It is 10-years old and seems a common issue for subs in general to have them desinegrate after this length of time.

anyway, here's a good double bass song. Anout 30-seconds in.



That's all I can think of right now.

Thanks for your help

-=Mark=-

 

[fly_marlin]

I finally got the info you asked for.
The amplifier is an Alpine V-Power MSP-M650 400 @ 4ohms or 600-watt @ 2ohms mono-amplifier.

The speaker is a JL Audio 12W1v2-4

The speaker enclosure is a sealed box roughly 18" x 18" x 18" I didn't measure it, but there was about 3 inches all around the speaker. I could have swore it was ported. but it wasn't.

I forgot to link a song. Not sure which one as my Klipsch sub went out and I'm replacing the foam ring around the sub. It is 10-years old and seems a common issue for subs in general to have them desinegrate after this length of time.

anyway, here's a good double bass song. Anout 30-seconds in.

Thanks. The results you're seeing are consistent with the power and box you have. I'm pretty sure it sounds good/clean, just doesn't have the output you want. As far as speakers go, where do you have your HPF set? I'm guessing you've set it on the amp - can you tell me what you've set it at for both sets of channels?

Here're some suggestions as far as bass:

1. The box has to go. Well designed ported box can sound very good and be a lot louder.

2. You can get a new box custom built. Note: if you still don't think there's enough output, you will want to find a new woofer that fits

the enclosure.

3. Get a new box and sub. Sub will need to be either DVC 4 ohm or DVC 1 ohm so that you can wire at 2 ohms and get that additional

power from your amp.

4. Sell everything and put the money towards something in the 1200W range. A properly powered 12" sub in a good box on that power

can do some damage.

If you don't want to sell everything, I'd choose option 3. 600W, good sub around that power, and box will do wonders for you.

 

[CSCStang]

I finally got the info you asked for.
The amplifier is an Alpine V-Power MSP-M650 400 @ 4ohms or 600-watt @ 2ohms mono-amplifier.

The speaker is a JL Audio 12W1v2-4

The speaker enclosure is a sealed box roughly 18" x 18" x 18" I didn't measure it, but there was about 3 inches all around the speaker. I could have swore it was ported. but it wasn't.

I forgot to link a song. Not sure which one as my Klipsch sub went out and I'm replacing the foam ring around the sub. It is 10-years old and seems a common issue for subs in general to have them desinegrate after this length of time.

anyway, here's a good double bass song. Anout 30-seconds in.

I can hook you up with a ported box that will do damage. Pm me if interested.

 

[MarkJohnson]

Thanks. The results you're seeing are consistent with the power and box you have. I'm pretty sure it sounds good/clean, just doesn't have the output you want. As far as speakers go, where do you have your HPF set? I'm guessing you've set it on the amp - can you tell me what you've set it at for both sets of channels?

I have no idea what the HPF is set at, I didn't install it and the amps were installed under my seats and I can't hardly see anything under there.

Here're some suggestions as far as bass:
1. The box has to go. Well designed ported box can sound very good and be a lot louder.

2. You can get a new box custom built. Note: if you still don't think there's enough output, you will want to find a new woofer that fits

the enclosure.

3. Get a new box and sub. Sub will need to be either DVC 4 ohm or DVC 1 ohm so that you can wire at 2 ohms and get that additional

power from your amp.

4. Sell everything and put the money towards something in the 1200W range. A properly powered 12" sub in a good box on that power

can do some damage.

If you don't want to sell everything, I'd choose option 3. 600W, good sub around that power, and box will do wonders for you.

If I go option 3, can I go like a 1200 watt 1 ohm speaker? or what would be my limit on the 1 ohm speaker and would I need any special type such a dual voice coil?

Also, do you have any good recommendations for a sub and box for playing speed metal or 80s type metal? There are just so many to choose from.

 

[big scott]

I can hook you up with a ported box that will do damage. Pm me if interested.

yes, he is a great guy, and builds boxes and is GOOD.

cant go wrong were.

 

[fly_marlin]

I have no idea what the HPF is set at, I didn't install it and the amps were installed under my seats and I can't hardly see anything under there.


If I go option 3, can I go like a 1200 watt 1 ohm speaker? or what would be my limit on the 1 ohm speaker and would I need any special type such a dual voice coil?

Also, do you have any good recommendations for a sub and box for playing speed metal or 80s type metal? There are just so many to choose from.

The HPF setting is what will largely determine the amount of midbass your speakers output. I really encourage you to get in there and see where it's at or get someone to help you look.

You can get any speaker really, but you want to make sure your amp can power it properly. Sub voice coil configuration is very important to consider because that determines the impedance your amp sees. Your amp appears to be stable down to 2 ohms, so wiring a sub to 1 ohm will either damage the amp or send it into protection.

Something like this would suit you well:

Flatlyne 12 Incriminator Audio 12" 600W Flatlyne Series - SSA STORE

You'd select the dual 4 ohm option. Again, I can't stress enough the importance of a custom built box. I've been into car audio since 2000 and didn't get my first custom box until 2006/07. Once I did, I couldn't believe how foolish I've been before.

 

[MarkJohnson]

The HPF setting is what will largely determine the amount of midbass your speakers output. I really encourage you to get in there and see where it's at or get someone to help you look.

There is no way to see in there. It is up against the seat rails and the center tunneling of the car and the console is in the way.

Is there a setting you can recommend? I'll probably have my cousin pull it out and check everything when I get the new sub and box so we can do it all at once. Or can any of this be done at my HU?

You can get any speaker really, but you want to make sure your amp can power it properly. Sub voice coil configuration is very important to consider because that determines the impedance your amp sees. Your amp appears to be stable down to 2 ohms, so wiring a sub to 1 ohm will either damage the amp or send it into protection.

I thought you could wire the DVC 1-ohm into a 2-ohm configuration?

Something like this would suit you well:
Flatlyne 12 Incriminator Audio 12" 600W Flatlyne Series - SSA STORE

You'd select the dual 4 ohm option. Again, I can't stress enough the importance of a custom built box. I've been into car audio since 2000 and didn't get my first custom box until 2006/07. Once I did, I couldn't believe how foolish I've been before.

My local audio store has a Rockford Fosgate 10" 600-watt RMS (1,200 peak) T1D410 It is the high tiered Power series.

He even has a lower tiered punch series P3D412 also 600-watts RMS (1,200 peak)

I think I want the 10" being it is the top tier sub. Is 10" going to handle things fine? Or should I go with the 12" version?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

There is no way to see in there. It is up against the seat rails and the center tunneling of the car and the console is in the way.
Is there a setting you can recommend? I'll probably have my cousin pull it out and check everything when I get the new sub and box so we can do it all at once. Or can any of this be done at my HU?

I thought you could wire the DVC 1-ohm into a 2-ohm configuration?

My local audio store has a Rockford Fosgate 10" 600-watt RMS (1,200 peak) T1D410 It is the high tiered Power series.

He even has a lower tiered punch series P3D412 also 600-watts RMS (1,200 peak)

I think I want the 10" being it is the top tier sub. Is 10" going to handle things fine? Or should I go with the 12" version?

Rockfords top tier is mediocre.

 

[fly_marlin]

There is no way to see in there. It is up against the seat rails and the center tunneling of the car and the console is in the way.
Is there a setting you can recommend? I'll probably have my cousin pull it out and check everything when I get the new sub and box so we can do it all at once. Or can any of this be done at my HU?

I thought you could wire the DVC 1-ohm into a 2-ohm configuration?

My local audio store has a Rockford Fosgate 10" 600-watt RMS (1,200 peak) T1D410 It is the high tiered Power series.

He even has a lower tiered punch series P3D412 also 600-watts RMS (1,200 peak)

I think I want the 10" being it is the top tier sub. Is 10" going to handle things fine? Or should I go with the 12" version?

You'll need to find out where things are set as far as x-overs go. I think you should use the deck since you can't access the amps easily, but you first need to pull out the amp and make sure that the x-overs are set to "full." Then you can set them on the deck and adjust as needed.

Most manufacturers have the same power ratings for their 10" and 12" models, so that's not an issue. With the 12", you have the luxury of more cone area as well as a bigger box, which add to the output. What's your budget for a sub? Also, you're committed to a custom box, correct? Work that into the budget.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

You'll need to find out where things are set as far as x-overs go. I think you should use the deck since you can't access the amps easily, but you first need to pull out the amp and make sure that the x-overs are set to "full." Then you can set them on the deck and adjust as needed.
Most manufacturers have the same power ratings for their 10" and 12" models, so that's not an issue. With the 12", you have the luxury of more cone area as well as a bigger box, which add to the output. What's your budget for a sub? Also, you're committed to a custom box, correct? Work that into the budget.

Mainstream don't have the same ratings. They use smaller motors and sometimes smaller coils on smaller subs

 

[fly_marlin]

Mainstream don't have the same ratings. They use smaller motors and sometimes smaller coils on smaller subs

Yeah, sorry. Was assuming he'd ditch the RF mindset...hoping is more like it.

 

[MarkJohnson]

Rockfords top tier is mediocre.

Any advice on a good sub for a limit under $500 and 600-watt @ 2-ohms?

Is this JL Audio sub any better?

12W6v3-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W6v3 - JL Audio

 

[fly_marlin]

Any advice on a good sub for a limit under $500 and 600-watt @ 2-ohms?
Is this JL Audio sub any better?

12W6v3-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W6v3 - JL Audio

It's good, from everything I've read, it blends with the front stage very well. Are you stuck on buying mainstream?