Is this overkill?

Okay, generally you'll always want to add and not replace.

Either way, when it comes to electrical, especially grounding...nothing imo is overkill.

The one thing I would add is a ground from Alternator to chasis since the grounding between alt and block can be less than great sometimes.

 
Any particular reason why grounding the alternator to the chassis, instead of the block, or straight to the battery?

The guy in that video acted like straight to the battery is better, to me it seems like it would be better to ground anything directly to the battery if at all possible.

 
Why only 4 gauge? What vehicle? What were the factory wiring gauges before you replaced them? It sounds like you just replaced them, not necessarily did the big 3 which requires bigger wire.

 
4awg is a huge improvement over 99% of factory wires

The alt should be bolted onto the block, then the block wired to chassis,then chassis to battery

If you want to add

Positive alt to battery, battery to block( if you don't think your 4awg is enough on the chassis)

 
Lot's of times, first time installers, underestimate the benefits of ample grounding. Good grounding to the frame and from the frame to the batteries is the most overlooked benefit to an install. I don't believe there is such a thing as too much "Proper" grounding. Meaning prepping the surfaces properly and using the right hardware. Hell, I grounded every piece of electronic equipment in my truck to the frame, and then for good measure, I went in the house and grounded all my kids just to make sure I didn't forget anything.

 
I had 4 gauge wire laying around. This wire is made for the automotive industry, it won't melt with a torch on it or put off black smoke like normal wire. It's not CCA, it's copper, and it looks to be about 2 -4 times as big as the stock wire that was 8 gauge. I have some other stuff to do to it but I'll try to get around to taking some pictures. It's on a Jeep XJ.

 
Won't melt? lol

I'm betting with someone that has 20k watts that it'll melt. Has that been proven realistically or your just going by what they told you?

 
Won't melt? lol
I'm betting with someone that has 20k watts that it'll melt. Has that been proven realistically or your just going by what they told you?
LOL, let me clarify.

I meant with normal wear this wire won't get rubbed in two, or melt from engine heat, etc. If you can hold a torch to it and it just turns black and bubbles a little, that's a good protective jacket.

 
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Post up a pic of this so called melt proof wire. I'm curious what sets it aside from the rest. Some mfgr's have thicker jacket/insulation, less strands and make consumers believe it's the same stuff as others.

 
Post up a pic of this so called melt proof wire. I'm curious what sets it aside from the rest. Some mfgr's have thicker jacket/insulation, less strands and make consumers believe it's the same stuff as others.
My old car caught fire fully in flames and the factory wires were still all there. I understand what he means.

 
My old car caught fire fully in flames and the factory wires were still all there. I understand what he means.
So this must be a high heat tolerable insulation then. I'm just trying to figure out what sets it aside from the others if you will.

 
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