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You guys are gonna choke on this one!
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<blockquote data-quote="Masshole" data-source="post: 31777" data-attributes="member: 543190"><p>I recently took a gamle with the purchase of 2 Volfenhag 12" DVC subs to replace the 12" orion xtr3 DVC's in my 2000 Rodeo. I'm pushing my subs with an Alpine MRV-1505 (900 W RMS 0.3% THD). I was using the Orions in a series/parallel configuration to create a 4 ohm bridge across the Alpine. I found the Orions to be lacking in the sub-bass frequencies, and a little too heavy in the 70-90 Hz range (boomy). The Orions are rated at about 400 WRMS a piece and sounded like they were ready to pop when driven that hard. I tried a ported, bandpass and sealed configurations. All seemed lacking the final octave (20-40 Hz) regardless of configuration.</p><p></p><p>So I sprung for the Volfies. I popped them into the same 1.25 cu.ft box the Orions shared and found a vast improvement. A little more articulate in the bass region (120-60 Hz range) and much, MUCH better extension in the sub-bass region (20-40 Hz).</p><p></p><p>I've tried all sorts of brand names including Kicker Comp VR (12", strong, durable, but a little lacking in middle/upper-bass region (100-120 Hz)), AudioBahn 12" (really muddy), and other no-name junk.</p><p></p><p>Go figure.</p><p></p><p>Keep in mind that I was a skeptic also. I hate cheap crap when it comes to audio (home and car), and I'm always expecting more bang for the buck that what is typically delivered.</p><p></p><p>With these subs in a simple, sealed enclosure, running full tilt (900 WRMS), I can literally get my SUV to shudder....controllably. I am a firm believer that amplifiers have almost as much say in the final acoustics as the subs. Afterall, if your amp cannot handle the back-emf from your subs, how can you expect good control? (ie:, connecting $300 subs to a $100 amp, will sound like $100 worth of garbage.</p><p></p><p>My opinion: Kudos to Volfenhag for selling a product that acutally delivers for a reasonable price. Yes, you can get slightly more articulate subs capable of the same output, but honestly....is it worth the 300-400 jump in price?</p><p></p><p>Just my 2 cents.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Masshole, post: 31777, member: 543190"] I recently took a gamle with the purchase of 2 Volfenhag 12" DVC subs to replace the 12" orion xtr3 DVC's in my 2000 Rodeo. I'm pushing my subs with an Alpine MRV-1505 (900 W RMS 0.3% THD). I was using the Orions in a series/parallel configuration to create a 4 ohm bridge across the Alpine. I found the Orions to be lacking in the sub-bass frequencies, and a little too heavy in the 70-90 Hz range (boomy). The Orions are rated at about 400 WRMS a piece and sounded like they were ready to pop when driven that hard. I tried a ported, bandpass and sealed configurations. All seemed lacking the final octave (20-40 Hz) regardless of configuration. So I sprung for the Volfies. I popped them into the same 1.25 cu.ft box the Orions shared and found a vast improvement. A little more articulate in the bass region (120-60 Hz range) and much, MUCH better extension in the sub-bass region (20-40 Hz). I've tried all sorts of brand names including Kicker Comp VR (12", strong, durable, but a little lacking in middle/upper-bass region (100-120 Hz)), AudioBahn 12" (really muddy), and other no-name junk. Go figure. Keep in mind that I was a skeptic also. I hate cheap crap when it comes to audio (home and car), and I'm always expecting more bang for the buck that what is typically delivered. With these subs in a simple, sealed enclosure, running full tilt (900 WRMS), I can literally get my SUV to shudder....controllably. I am a firm believer that amplifiers have almost as much say in the final acoustics as the subs. Afterall, if your amp cannot handle the back-emf from your subs, how can you expect good control? (ie:, connecting $300 subs to a $100 amp, will sound like $100 worth of garbage. My opinion: Kudos to Volfenhag for selling a product that acutally delivers for a reasonable price. Yes, you can get slightly more articulate subs capable of the same output, but honestly....is it worth the 300-400 jump in price? Just my 2 cents. [/QUOTE]
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