Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Wiring Upgrade Questions
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Oldbasshead" data-source="post: 8839485" data-attributes="member: 688756"><p>Hi all,</p><p></p><p>I'm new here so forgive me if I miss any prerequisite info for asking advice.</p><p></p><p>I used to run some heavy hitting systems years ago, but then I had kids, lol, and my stereos had to take a back seat so that my kiddos could sit in a backseat. Last year I installed a budget 1500W Skar system in my oldest son's car and have gotten hooked again. I guess that was inevitable.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, I initially installed a Kicker 800.1 amp and a 10" Solobaric in my 2019 Mazda 3 sedan. Kicker LOC and Kicker 4G OFC wiring kit. Worked well but just wasn't giving me the bass I really wanted, so I upgraded and I've clearly taken things too far. Now I have the same Kicker setup along with a 1500W Memphis amp and the same Skar 2x12" box that my son was using. The Skars and Kicker are running at 1 ohm, so I'm probably roughly at 1600-2000W RMS now. At full tilt, my voltage readout on my 8 farad capacitor goes from 13.6V to under 10V real quick, throwing the cap into protect mode for 10 seconds or so. </p><p></p><p>My car has a stock 300A alternator and a new battery, so I'm assuming my wiring just can't handle the power I'm asking from it now, hence the severe voltage drops. I'm planning to re-run the power and ground with 1/0 OFC. My main question is can I continue to run 4g from my capacitor to the amps and just run the 1/0 directly to the capacitor, which is also a distribution block? I assumed the voltage drop is due to trying to pull 1500+ RMS through a 4G wire. Am I on the right track with this thinking? I'm not looking to build a competition system, just looking for that big bass in my tiny little Mazda, lol.</p><p></p><p>Thanks for reading and any advice.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Oldbasshead, post: 8839485, member: 688756"] Hi all, I'm new here so forgive me if I miss any prerequisite info for asking advice. I used to run some heavy hitting systems years ago, but then I had kids, lol, and my stereos had to take a back seat so that my kiddos could sit in a backseat. Last year I installed a budget 1500W Skar system in my oldest son's car and have gotten hooked again. I guess that was inevitable. Anyway, I initially installed a Kicker 800.1 amp and a 10" Solobaric in my 2019 Mazda 3 sedan. Kicker LOC and Kicker 4G OFC wiring kit. Worked well but just wasn't giving me the bass I really wanted, so I upgraded and I've clearly taken things too far. Now I have the same Kicker setup along with a 1500W Memphis amp and the same Skar 2x12" box that my son was using. The Skars and Kicker are running at 1 ohm, so I'm probably roughly at 1600-2000W RMS now. At full tilt, my voltage readout on my 8 farad capacitor goes from 13.6V to under 10V real quick, throwing the cap into protect mode for 10 seconds or so. My car has a stock 300A alternator and a new battery, so I'm assuming my wiring just can't handle the power I'm asking from it now, hence the severe voltage drops. I'm planning to re-run the power and ground with 1/0 OFC. My main question is can I continue to run 4g from my capacitor to the amps and just run the 1/0 directly to the capacitor, which is also a distribution block? I assumed the voltage drop is due to trying to pull 1500+ RMS through a 4G wire. Am I on the right track with this thinking? I'm not looking to build a competition system, just looking for that big bass in my tiny little Mazda, lol. Thanks for reading and any advice. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Wiring Upgrade Questions
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh