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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Wiring / mono amplifier 2 subwoofers / 4 channel amplifier bridged for 2 speakers
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8871686" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>Okay, well then, sounds like you have done your homework. I've used the Kicker LOC, it's a sold performer and you do get the added benefit of the remote turn on.</p><p></p><p>Her ya go!</p><p></p><p><em>“#1 On the drawing, inside the subwoofer box, it was already wired when i bought it (see picture attached). Each subwoofer has a "jumper cable" inside. The way I wired the subwoofers outside the box, I made two jumper cables and connected the subwoofer wire coming from the MRP-M650 amplifier and did a "TAP" on each one. Is this the way to do it? ...and does that give me 2 Ohms for my MRP-M650 amplifier?”</em></p><p></p><p><strong>The wiring you show is a series connection and provides you with a 4 ohm load to the amplifier- 400 watts, and the only option as the amp is not 1 ohm stable (the other wiring option)</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>#2 NOTE: BOTH AMPLIFIERS WILL BE UNDER THE FRONT SEATS OF THE VEHICLE.</em></p><p><em>I've done my research and I already have an idea but I would like to have your opinion just to make sure..- What wire size do you recommend for the subwoofers if the MRP-M650 amplifier gives 300W RMS ×2?- What wire size for the two lower “speakers” of the front doors if the MRP-F200 amplifier gives 100W RMS ×2?</em></p><p></p><p><strong>Use 16 gauge for the front door speakers or comps depending on what you do up front, from the amp to the subs 12 gauge.</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>- What wire size for the "Power and Ground cable?</em></p><p></p><p><strong>4 gauge to the amp area, 2 way distribution block, 8 gauge to the amps.</strong></p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6PGBTYV/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6PGBTYV/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>1 25 amp fuse (60 is included with the distro block</strong></p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9ISXW6/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9ISXW6/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a> </p><p></p><p></p><p><em>- Are 20 or 18 gauge (which I already have) suitable for the wires of the “CT-Sounds bass knob” and for the “remote” wires that goes to the amplifiers?</em></p><p></p><p><strong>Either is fine.</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>#3 Is it really necessary to have a voltmeter for the system (“bass knob CT-Sounds with voltmeter” as shown in my drawing) OR can I just use the “bass knob PAC LC-1” without a voltmeter?</em></p><p></p><p><strong>I would not bother with a volt meter knob, get the 5 pin (Rj11 type) remote knob that came with the amp for best results</strong>.</p><p></p><p>$20</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/134127046996?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1" target="_blank">https://www.ebay.com/itm/134127046996?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1</a></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>***The "PAC LC-1 bass knob" is 4 times cheaper and much easier to install because it's just RCA'S (input and output)...</em></p><p></p><p><strong>See last suggestion, no need.</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>#4 If you recommend the “CT-Sounds bass knob with voltmeter”, by pushing the control button you can turn the MRP-M650 amplifier on or off. The PAC LC-1 bass knob can only control the bass but cannot turn the amplifier on or off. So, will the “remote” wires of the two amplifiers automatically turn off the 2 amplifiers if I “TAP” them on the “remote antenna #18” wire of the 24 pin harness (refer to harnesses description picture) of the radio when I turn off the engine? ...I wouldn't want to run out my battery...</em></p><p></p><p><strong>Remote wire from the kicker LOC (daisy chained from one amp to the other) will turn the unit off and on.</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>***I am writing and I have the impression of being completely in the field...</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>#5 If I understand correctly, the radio volume will control all the car's speakers and subwoofers? As for the “bass knob”, it is only used to adjust the bass of the subwoofers?</em></p><p></p><p><strong>Once the gains are properly set, then you can use the head unit to attenuate volume relative to the entire system, the bass knob will afford you extra flexibility for the BASS output, this should vcover all your needs.</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>#6 There are two 30A fuses on the MRP-M650 amplifier for the subwoofers. Is a 60A breaker OK near the battery?</em></p><p></p><p><strong>You have two amplifiers; the combined total of both is what you need. This is for fire protection, not amplifier protection. A single 90-100 fuse or breaker should suffice. I use breakers for their convenience. This is one of the better ones (don’t skimp here).</strong></p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F76VJT2/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F76VJT2/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>#7 There is a 25A fuse on the MRP-F200 amplifier for the front speakers. I couldn't find a 25A breaker for a car, I don't think it exists. There are only 20A or 30A “breakers”. Can I get one of the two? If yes, which one?</em></p><p></p><p><strong>See #6, gotcha covered!</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>***I would like “breakers” for the simple reason that you can press “reset” and no need to replace fuses. On the other hand, if I have no choice but to put a 25A fuse for the MRP-F200 amplifier, I will do so.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>#8 In the user's manual for the MRP-M650 amplifier (page 8, fig.4) they mention that it may be necessary in certain conditions for the "remote turn-on lead" wire of the amplifier to be connected to a “switched power source” like “ignition”. It also mentions that maybe it would be necessary to install a "switch" and a 3A fuse near the "ignition" TAP!?!? If we're talking about "ignition" it's probably #7 on the 24 pin harness of the radio (refer to harnesses description picture). I don't really understand this page #8 and figure 4 either. Do i really need all this for the MRP-M650? Should i also do the same thing for the MRP-F200 amplifier even if it is not mentioned in the user's manual!?</em></p><p></p><p>*If this is the case, I don't know exactly where to "TAP" and how to wire the 3A fuses and the "switch"!?!?...</p><p></p><p><strong>With the kicker LOC, that is all the remote turn on you will need. Disregard #8</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p><em>#9 On my wiring sketch, wherever I connect the wires, please check if I "TAP" at the right places to get the signal (see picture of harnesses description)... if that is the way to do it. ..</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>… AND FINALLY… HAHAHA</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>#10 Nowhere could I find the dimensions for the depth of the “speakers” at the bottom of the front doors to find a good “fit”! I even called Hyundai and they don't have that either. The only thing I found was the size of the speakers on <a href="https://sovrn.co/rxnoyeg" target="_blank">Crutchfield</a>.ca and they say 6 ½” OR 6 ¾”. Why two sizes, it seems to me that it's not possible? One or the other must have a support for installation right?!?!</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>***On <a href="https://sovrn.co/rxnoyeg" target="_blank">Crutchfield</a>.ca, they ask if there is a logo on the front speaker grills and mine doesn't have one.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>I also checked on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Car+audio&crid=2XPERM4EK9VH0&sprefix=car+audio%252Caps%252C76&ref=nb_sb_noss_1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=caraudiocom-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=ed529f594e1c94e685f22550d77446a4&camp=1789&creative=9325" target="_blank">Amazon</a> but when I choose my vehicle, they don't give any suggestions for “speakers” no idea why... Do you know if there is a website that exists to see what speakers fits in my vehicle?</em></p><p></p><p></p><p><strong>6.5/6.75 is roughly the same overall basket size. One has a little larger cone but the frames are either or as fitment is concerned. Here are some decent budget comps I would recommend you consider (includes replacement tweeters) they are rated for the MRP F-200’s 100 x 2, bridged. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>From Recoil:</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>$53 Good</strong></p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/echo-series-6-5-inch-component-speaker-system/" target="_blank">https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/echo-series-6-5-inch-component-speaker-system/</a></p><p></p><p><strong>$95 Better</strong></p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/spm65-level-two-series-6-5-inch-car-audio-component-speaker-system/" target="_blank">https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/spm65-level-two-series-6-5-inch-car-audio-component-speaker-system/</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Best</strong></p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/rd65-performance-series-6-5-inch-car-audio-component-speaker-system/" target="_blank">https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/rd65-performance-series-6-5-inch-car-audio-component-speaker-system/</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Excellent deal at $99 (regularly $249) and ones that I used on my grandsons ride:</strong></p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/304990827111?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1" target="_blank">https://www.ebay.com/itm/304990827111?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1</a></p><p></p><p>-What specifications do you recommend? -How many watts RMS?... 2-way?, 3-way?, midrange?, fullrange, coaxial!?!?</p><p></p><p>*From what I understand, a 2-way midrange speaker would be ok... if it exists LOL I'm all mixed up, I've listened to too many videos! LOL I don't want to invest too much but i still want something decent. My budget is tight... off work since 2021.</p><p></p><p><strong>Covered.</strong></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8871686, member: 689267"] Okay, well then, sounds like you have done your homework. I've used the Kicker LOC, it's a sold performer and you do get the added benefit of the remote turn on. Her ya go! [I]“#1 On the drawing, inside the subwoofer box, it was already wired when i bought it (see picture attached). Each subwoofer has a "jumper cable" inside. The way I wired the subwoofers outside the box, I made two jumper cables and connected the subwoofer wire coming from the MRP-M650 amplifier and did a "TAP" on each one. Is this the way to do it? ...and does that give me 2 Ohms for my MRP-M650 amplifier?”[/I] [B]The wiring you show is a series connection and provides you with a 4 ohm load to the amplifier- 400 watts, and the only option as the amp is not 1 ohm stable (the other wiring option)[/B] [I]#2 NOTE: BOTH AMPLIFIERS WILL BE UNDER THE FRONT SEATS OF THE VEHICLE. I've done my research and I already have an idea but I would like to have your opinion just to make sure..- What wire size do you recommend for the subwoofers if the MRP-M650 amplifier gives 300W RMS ×2?- What wire size for the two lower “speakers” of the front doors if the MRP-F200 amplifier gives 100W RMS ×2?[/I] [B]Use 16 gauge for the front door speakers or comps depending on what you do up front, from the amp to the subs 12 gauge.[/B] [I]- What wire size for the "Power and Ground cable?[/I] [B]4 gauge to the amp area, 2 way distribution block, 8 gauge to the amps.[/B] [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6PGBTYV/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] [B] 1 25 amp fuse (60 is included with the distro block[/B] [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9ISXW6/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL][B] [/B] [I]- Are 20 or 18 gauge (which I already have) suitable for the wires of the “CT-Sounds bass knob” and for the “remote” wires that goes to the amplifiers?[/I] [B]Either is fine.[/B] [I]#3 Is it really necessary to have a voltmeter for the system (“bass knob CT-Sounds with voltmeter” as shown in my drawing) OR can I just use the “bass knob PAC LC-1” without a voltmeter?[/I] [B]I would not bother with a volt meter knob, get the 5 pin (Rj11 type) remote knob that came with the amp for best results[/B]. $20 [URL]https://www.ebay.com/itm/134127046996?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] [I]***The "PAC LC-1 bass knob" is 4 times cheaper and much easier to install because it's just RCA'S (input and output)...[/I] [B]See last suggestion, no need.[/B] [I]#4 If you recommend the “CT-Sounds bass knob with voltmeter”, by pushing the control button you can turn the MRP-M650 amplifier on or off. The PAC LC-1 bass knob can only control the bass but cannot turn the amplifier on or off. So, will the “remote” wires of the two amplifiers automatically turn off the 2 amplifiers if I “TAP” them on the “remote antenna #18” wire of the 24 pin harness (refer to harnesses description picture) of the radio when I turn off the engine? ...I wouldn't want to run out my battery...[/I] [B]Remote wire from the kicker LOC (daisy chained from one amp to the other) will turn the unit off and on.[/B] [I]***I am writing and I have the impression of being completely in the field... #5 If I understand correctly, the radio volume will control all the car's speakers and subwoofers? As for the “bass knob”, it is only used to adjust the bass of the subwoofers?[/I] [B]Once the gains are properly set, then you can use the head unit to attenuate volume relative to the entire system, the bass knob will afford you extra flexibility for the BASS output, this should vcover all your needs.[/B] [I]#6 There are two 30A fuses on the MRP-M650 amplifier for the subwoofers. Is a 60A breaker OK near the battery?[/I] [B]You have two amplifiers; the combined total of both is what you need. This is for fire protection, not amplifier protection. A single 90-100 fuse or breaker should suffice. I use breakers for their convenience. This is one of the better ones (don’t skimp here).[/B] [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F76VJT2/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] [I]#7 There is a 25A fuse on the MRP-F200 amplifier for the front speakers. I couldn't find a 25A breaker for a car, I don't think it exists. There are only 20A or 30A “breakers”. Can I get one of the two? If yes, which one?[/I] [B]See #6, gotcha covered![/B] [I]***I would like “breakers” for the simple reason that you can press “reset” and no need to replace fuses. On the other hand, if I have no choice but to put a 25A fuse for the MRP-F200 amplifier, I will do so. #8 In the user's manual for the MRP-M650 amplifier (page 8, fig.4) they mention that it may be necessary in certain conditions for the "remote turn-on lead" wire of the amplifier to be connected to a “switched power source” like “ignition”. It also mentions that maybe it would be necessary to install a "switch" and a 3A fuse near the "ignition" TAP!?!? If we're talking about "ignition" it's probably #7 on the 24 pin harness of the radio (refer to harnesses description picture). I don't really understand this page #8 and figure 4 either. Do i really need all this for the MRP-M650? Should i also do the same thing for the MRP-F200 amplifier even if it is not mentioned in the user's manual!?[/I] *If this is the case, I don't know exactly where to "TAP" and how to wire the 3A fuses and the "switch"!?!?... [B]With the kicker LOC, that is all the remote turn on you will need. Disregard #8[/B] [I]#9 On my wiring sketch, wherever I connect the wires, please check if I "TAP" at the right places to get the signal (see picture of harnesses description)... if that is the way to do it. .. … AND FINALLY… HAHAHA #10 Nowhere could I find the dimensions for the depth of the “speakers” at the bottom of the front doors to find a good “fit”! I even called Hyundai and they don't have that either. The only thing I found was the size of the speakers on [URL='https://sovrn.co/rxnoyeg']Crutchfield[/URL].ca and they say 6 ½” OR 6 ¾”. Why two sizes, it seems to me that it's not possible? One or the other must have a support for installation right?!?! ***On [URL='https://sovrn.co/rxnoyeg']Crutchfield[/URL].ca, they ask if there is a logo on the front speaker grills and mine doesn't have one. I also checked on [URL='https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Car+audio&crid=2XPERM4EK9VH0&sprefix=car+audio%252Caps%252C76&ref=nb_sb_noss_1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=caraudiocom-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=ed529f594e1c94e685f22550d77446a4&camp=1789&creative=9325']Amazon[/URL] but when I choose my vehicle, they don't give any suggestions for “speakers” no idea why... Do you know if there is a website that exists to see what speakers fits in my vehicle?[/I] [B]6.5/6.75 is roughly the same overall basket size. One has a little larger cone but the frames are either or as fitment is concerned. Here are some decent budget comps I would recommend you consider (includes replacement tweeters) they are rated for the MRP F-200’s 100 x 2, bridged. From Recoil: $53 Good[/B] [URL]https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/echo-series-6-5-inch-component-speaker-system/[/URL] [B]$95 Better[/B] [URL]https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/spm65-level-two-series-6-5-inch-car-audio-component-speaker-system/[/URL] [B]Best[/B] [URL]https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/rd65-performance-series-6-5-inch-car-audio-component-speaker-system/[/URL] [B]Excellent deal at $99 (regularly $249) and ones that I used on my grandsons ride:[/B] [URL]https://www.ebay.com/itm/304990827111?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] -What specifications do you recommend? -How many watts RMS?... 2-way?, 3-way?, midrange?, fullrange, coaxial!?!? *From what I understand, a 2-way midrange speaker would be ok... if it exists LOL I'm all mixed up, I've listened to too many videos! LOL I don't want to invest too much but i still want something decent. My budget is tight... off work since 2021. [B]Covered.[/B] [/QUOTE]
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