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Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Wiring and fuse help.
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<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8841051" data-attributes="member: 674149"><p>* Your distribution block fuses need to be the same or more than the amps they are going to. </p><p></p><p>* The wiring from the distribution block to the amps, needs to be capable of handling more than what the higher fuse is from the distribution block to the amp, (which should be the distribution block). </p><p></p><p>* Your main power, inline fuse needs to be as close to the battery as possible, or on the terminal if you have the option, (because anything between the fuse and the battery is not protected). </p><p></p><p>* Your main power wire's fuse needs to be at least as much as the combined total of the fuses on the distribution block. </p><p></p><p>* Your main power wire needs to be capable of more than the inline fuse. </p><p></p><p>Your distribution block and main line fuses, technically don't need to be there to make it work. The reason you put them in, is because you are intentionally adding a weak point into the system. If you overload the circuit, you want it to fry the fuse, where it won't cause further damage to the vehicle, and where you can easily access and fix it. If your fuses are more than what the wiring is capable of, then the fuses would be pointless. </p><p></p><p>You can always go as big as you want on the wiring. It just costs a little more to purchase, and takes up a little more space if you are feeding it through a firewall/hole/panel. If you might ever upgrade, the wiring is the best thing to upgrade before you need it, because you :most likely will just spend a few bucks more, you won't have to buy a new inline fuse, you won't have to buy a new distribution block, and you won't have to run the new wire. All you would have to do is run a new wire from the distribution block. Some blocks like Knuconceptz already have the larger holes for bigger wire, but come with reducers so you can use smaller wire now, and already have the option ready to go.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8841051, member: 674149"] * Your distribution block fuses need to be the same or more than the amps they are going to. * The wiring from the distribution block to the amps, needs to be capable of handling more than what the higher fuse is from the distribution block to the amp, (which should be the distribution block). * Your main power, inline fuse needs to be as close to the battery as possible, or on the terminal if you have the option, (because anything between the fuse and the battery is not protected). * Your main power wire's fuse needs to be at least as much as the combined total of the fuses on the distribution block. * Your main power wire needs to be capable of more than the inline fuse. Your distribution block and main line fuses, technically don't need to be there to make it work. The reason you put them in, is because you are intentionally adding a weak point into the system. If you overload the circuit, you want it to fry the fuse, where it won't cause further damage to the vehicle, and where you can easily access and fix it. If your fuses are more than what the wiring is capable of, then the fuses would be pointless. You can always go as big as you want on the wiring. It just costs a little more to purchase, and takes up a little more space if you are feeding it through a firewall/hole/panel. If you might ever upgrade, the wiring is the best thing to upgrade before you need it, because you :most likely will just spend a few bucks more, you won't have to buy a new inline fuse, you won't have to buy a new distribution block, and you won't have to run the new wire. All you would have to do is run a new wire from the distribution block. Some blocks like Knuconceptz already have the larger holes for bigger wire, but come with reducers so you can use smaller wire now, and already have the option ready to go. [/QUOTE]
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Wiring and fuse help.
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