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wire/alt issue. RF-PowerSeries EXP would b nice!
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<blockquote data-quote="GotThemVibes90" data-source="post: 5729292" data-attributes="member: 607247"><p>erg...</p><p></p><p>well the thing is, i already did that when i first ran the batterys.</p><p></p><p>the people at my local auto store, advanced auto parts, are unprofessional idiots</p><p></p><p>they have a 2000 DOLLAR PEICE of equipment for load testing and they dont know how to use it.. they claim its broken...</p><p></p><p>this is what it gave me on a long slip. this was 6 days ago, before i finished by putting my subwoofers in</p><p></p><p>i dont understand how accurate this could be, cuz what he had clamped onto the neg and pos of just my front battery and another one that clamped around my alternator positive.. but for some reason he put it around my battery neg ground.... like wtf?? but even when having 2 batterys how would this be accurate if hes just testing off the front battery? explain, id like to know how shit works ^^</p><p></p><p>battery test</p><p></p><p>results:</p><p></p><p><strong>good battery</strong></p><p></p><p>voltage: 13.28v</p><p></p><p>measured: 588cca</p><p></p><p>rated: 800cca</p><p></p><p>temperature: 47 F</p><p></p><p>battery meets or exceeds required standards</p><p></p><p>starter test</p><p></p><p>results:</p><p></p><p><strong>low cranking amps</strong></p><p></p><p>voltage: 12.49v</p><p></p><p>amps: 11.2A</p><p></p><p>time: 3.2s</p><p></p><p>starter amp draw is low with ok starter voltage, check starter circuit for loose worn or corroded wiring.</p><p></p><p>charging system test</p><p></p><p>results:</p><p></p><p><strong>No problems</strong></p><p></p><p>no load: 14.25v -3.8A</p><p></p><p>loaded: 14.23v -8.1A</p><p></p><p>(then theres a bar graph with max and min on the left margin, no load and loaded on the bottom, both bars meet in the middle of max and min lines.</p><p></p><p>(another graph showing 0.24v at top, and -.24v at bottom. rippled line smack dap in the middle saying, RIPPLE 41mV)</p><p></p><p>last but not least...</p><p></p><p>drain test</p><p></p><p>results:</p><p></p><p>0.02A pass</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="GotThemVibes90, post: 5729292, member: 607247"] erg... well the thing is, i already did that when i first ran the batterys. the people at my local auto store, advanced auto parts, are unprofessional idiots they have a 2000 DOLLAR PEICE of equipment for load testing and they dont know how to use it.. they claim its broken... this is what it gave me on a long slip. this was 6 days ago, before i finished by putting my subwoofers in i dont understand how accurate this could be, cuz what he had clamped onto the neg and pos of just my front battery and another one that clamped around my alternator positive.. but for some reason he put it around my battery neg ground.... like wtf?? but even when having 2 batterys how would this be accurate if hes just testing off the front battery? explain, id like to know how shit works ^^ battery test results: [B]good battery[/B] voltage: 13.28v measured: 588cca rated: 800cca temperature: 47 F battery meets or exceeds required standards starter test results: [B]low cranking amps[/B] voltage: 12.49v amps: 11.2A time: 3.2s starter amp draw is low with ok starter voltage, check starter circuit for loose worn or corroded wiring. charging system test results: [B]No problems[/B] no load: 14.25v -3.8A loaded: 14.23v -8.1A (then theres a bar graph with max and min on the left margin, no load and loaded on the bottom, both bars meet in the middle of max and min lines. (another graph showing 0.24v at top, and -.24v at bottom. rippled line smack dap in the middle saying, RIPPLE 41mV) last but not least... drain test results: 0.02A pass [/QUOTE]
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wire/alt issue. RF-PowerSeries EXP would b nice!
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