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Window motor wire up assistance
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<blockquote data-quote="wew lad" data-source="post: 8693578" data-attributes="member: 665412"><p>You could test it with a 12v battery seeing that you know what most of the functions are. 12v/ground are obvious. Window up/down will probably "short" to 12v or in some cases to ground. That's probably all you need. The auto functions are probably the same.</p><p></p><p>One of those wires may be a safety override. Afaik all "newer" cars (at least 2000+) have a safety override in case a child get their head stuck in the window. Either that or a window "shut off switch" which could still be on both sides because of ease of manufacturing even though it only gets used on the driver side switch panel</p><p></p><p>DACC probably is switched accessory, so it's only powered when the key is on or the RAP is on (i.e. cars turned off but doors haven't opened so the radio, windows, etc are still "on." I doubt the positive is switched itself via computer because it can draw somewhat substantial current</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="wew lad, post: 8693578, member: 665412"] You could test it with a 12v battery seeing that you know what most of the functions are. 12v/ground are obvious. Window up/down will probably "short" to 12v or in some cases to ground. That's probably all you need. The auto functions are probably the same. One of those wires may be a safety override. Afaik all "newer" cars (at least 2000+) have a safety override in case a child get their head stuck in the window. Either that or a window "shut off switch" which could still be on both sides because of ease of manufacturing even though it only gets used on the driver side switch panel DACC probably is switched accessory, so it's only powered when the key is on or the RAP is on (i.e. cars turned off but doors haven't opened so the radio, windows, etc are still "on." I doubt the positive is switched itself via computer because it can draw somewhat substantial current [/QUOTE]
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