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<blockquote data-quote="helotaxi" data-source="post: 4821193" data-attributes="member: 550915">The root of your problem is that you&#039;re applying the concept of the AC &quot;ground&quot; or &quot;earth&quot; to DC electrical.&nbsp; There is NO ground in a DC circuit.&nbsp; You&#039;re not looking for a safety sink for stray voltage like you are with AC.&nbsp; The term &quot;ground&quot; was applied to DC because like &quot;earth&quot; in AC it is the plane of zero potential.&nbsp; AC has 3 wires, remember?&nbsp; There are the two conducting lines to make the circuit and the earth.&nbsp; The earth is there to protect the user, not because it&#039;s an essential part of the circuit.&nbsp; Think about it, every two prong plug that you stick in a 110V outlet works without being grounded.&nbsp; With AC both of the conductors are both positive an negative 60 time a second in your house.&nbsp; Ground is neither, it&#039;s just ground.&nbsp; In you car there is a positive and a negative, they don&#039;t change.&nbsp; There is no ground.&nbsp; The chassis of the car is not meant to dissipate a large voltage in the even of a short, DC doesn&#039;t work like that.&nbsp; The chassis is simply a large conductor that serves the purpose of simplifying the installation and wiring of all the electrical devices in the car.As far as the big 3 making dimming worse, the only reason that would happen would be because the wiring was so inadequate before the upgrade that the voltage drop (the cause of dimming lights) from the wiring kept the devices from drawing the full amount of current that they should have in the first place.&nbsp; With a better pathway, those devices MIGHT draw more current and then exceed the capacity of the alt.&nbsp; This is the only scenario where adding the big 3 would increase dimming and a good battery or two would do more for this than adding a bigger alt as ling as you&#039;re talking about headlight flicker and not a prolonged dimming.You seem to think that the only way to dim the lights is by exceeding the capacity of the alt.&nbsp; The big 3 eliminates the main cause which is systemic voltage drop cause by the stock wires being inadequate and their high resistance dropping voltage according to Ohm&#039;s law.edit:&nbsp; Forgot to add, that current flows in all pathways in a parallel circuit.&nbsp; Your car&#039;s electrical system is one big parallel circuit.&nbsp; Power on each load in a parallel circuit is independent of the power on the other loads on the circuit.&nbsp; As long as the source of the power can meet the demand of the circuit as a whole, increasing the efficiency of the power delivery from the source will have an equal benefit to the entire circuit.That&#039;s just plain wrong.&nbsp; It&#039;s pretty obvious that you don&#039;t understand this.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="helotaxi, post: 4821193, member: 550915"] The root of your problem is that you're applying the concept of the AC "ground" or "earth" to DC electrical. There is NO ground in a DC circuit. You're not looking for a safety sink for stray voltage like you are with AC. The term "ground" was applied to DC because like "earth" in AC it is the plane of zero potential. AC has 3 wires, remember? There are the two conducting lines to make the circuit and the earth. The earth is there to protect the user, not because it's an essential part of the circuit. Think about it, every two prong plug that you stick in a 110V outlet works without being grounded. With AC both of the conductors are both positive an negative 60 time a second in your house. Ground is neither, it's just ground. In you car there is a positive and a negative, they don't change. There is no ground. The chassis of the car is not meant to dissipate a large voltage in the even of a short, DC doesn't work like that. The chassis is simply a large conductor that serves the purpose of simplifying the installation and wiring of all the electrical devices in the car. As far as the big 3 making dimming worse, the only reason that would happen would be because the wiring was so inadequate before the upgrade that the voltage drop (the cause of dimming lights) from the wiring kept the devices from drawing the full amount of current that they should have in the first place. With a better pathway, those devices MIGHT draw more current and then exceed the capacity of the alt. This is the only scenario where adding the big 3 would increase dimming and a good battery or two would do more for this than adding a bigger alt as ling as you're talking about headlight flicker and not a prolonged dimming. You seem to think that the only way to dim the lights is by exceeding the capacity of the alt. The big 3 eliminates the main cause which is systemic voltage drop cause by the stock wires being inadequate and their high resistance dropping voltage according to Ohm's law. edit: Forgot to add, that current flows in all pathways in a parallel circuit. Your car's electrical system is one big parallel circuit. Power on each load in a parallel circuit is independent of the power on the other loads on the circuit. As long as the source of the power can meet the demand of the circuit as a whole, increasing the efficiency of the power delivery from the source will have an equal benefit to the entire circuit. That's just plain wrong. It's pretty obvious that you don't understand this. [/QUOTE]

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