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<blockquote data-quote="Justintoxicated" data-source="post: 4820800" data-attributes="member: 561240">Thanks, I don&#039;t think the question was a matter of if power needed to transfer back to the battery, but more so if it was necessary to really run a second 0awg line.&nbsp; I have never had a problem with my setup grounding into the frame rail of my truck (Nissan titan with huge box frame).In the end I was somewhat persuaded that on a high output system this is optimal, but 10-12 feet of 0awg is quite expensive and I&#039;m not sure it&#039;s always necessary.&nbsp; I&#039;m only pusing a couple thousand watts at once, and generaly when I have other accessories running (Ham Radio, Or dual ViaAir compressors) I don&#039;t have the stereo blazing anyways.My point was that not all of the power even comes from the battery, it also comes from the alternator which is also grounded to the frame.&nbsp; lilmaniac2 corrected me and bashed me saying its grounded to the engine block which is higher grade metal (conductance wise than the frame, which true in my case since I have an aluminum block), and then to the battery and to the frame.However on a V8 truck such as my own theres ground straps all over (some are 0awg) that I made myself to replace teh factory ones.&nbsp;&nbsp; I&#039;m sure theres a ton of paths to ground the alternator to the frame as well through the engine block...(feel free to correct me if I&#039;m wrong here), not to mention that the battery is also grounded to the frame and body in several locations.The alternator being so close and directly connected to the ground of the alternator I can believe there can be a slight advantage in grounding back to the battery, especialy in some vehicles vs others.&nbsp; It should also help to avoid ground loop issues although I don&#039;t have any.Lesson Learned: never ask questions in the help section of CarAudio.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Justintoxicated, post: 4820800, member: 561240"] Thanks, I don't think the question was a matter of if power needed to transfer back to the battery, but more so if it was necessary to really run a second 0awg line. I have never had a problem with my setup grounding into the frame rail of my truck (Nissan titan with huge box frame). In the end I was somewhat persuaded that on a high output system this is optimal, but 10-12 feet of 0awg is quite expensive and I'm not sure it's always necessary. I'm only pusing a couple thousand watts at once, and generaly when I have other accessories running (Ham Radio, Or dual ViaAir compressors) I don't have the stereo blazing anyways. My point was that not all of the power even comes from the battery, it also comes from the alternator which is also grounded to the frame. lilmaniac2 corrected me and bashed me saying its grounded to the engine block which is higher grade metal (conductance wise than the frame, which true in my case since I have an aluminum block), and then to the battery and to the frame. However on a V8 truck such as my own theres ground straps all over (some are 0awg) that I made myself to replace teh factory ones. I'm sure theres a ton of paths to ground the alternator to the frame as well through the engine block...(feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here), not to mention that the battery is also grounded to the frame and body in several locations. The alternator being so close and directly connected to the ground of the alternator I can believe there can be a slight advantage in grounding back to the battery, especialy in some vehicles vs others. It should also help to avoid ground loop issues although I don't have any. Lesson Learned: never ask questions in the help section of CarAudio. [/QUOTE]

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