Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Why not welding cable?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Drxz" data-source="post: 5128608" data-attributes="member: 603317"><p>I work for Trystar-Bridgewater Tech in Faribault, MN where the cable is manufactured and it is a very high quality commercial grade cable. I recently, used 1/0 premium cable (non-ul) in my car audio setup that I got from work and I had no issues with the cable not being flexible enough. The stranded copper is to AWG specs, so you're getting 1/0 size, no less, no more. This way when you buy 1/0 lugs or ring terminals you know you have the correct wire size for the terminal end. The PVC jacket used on the wire is incredibly tough (has to be; this cable is used by rental and construction companies), and the cable is double insulated. I know there is talk about how TCW (tinned copper wire) has greater resistance to oxidation degradation, but it is not necessary in a car application, unlike in a marine application. Sure, wicking could occur in the engine compartment, but with properly crimped or better yet soldered terminal ends and heat shrink tubing, the bare copper is not as susceptible to moisture. The conductor is rated for 600v and the insulation would need to be subjected to temps above 220 degrees F to degrade. The extrusion process alone takes temps of 310 degress F to apply the insulator to the bare copper.</p><p></p><p>Here is a quote I found regarding this issue:</p><p></p><p></p><p>Here is a pic of my setup in the engine compartment:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q71/drxz/IMG_1235.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>For those looking for a cheap alternative and not needing the cosmetics of translucent colored jacketing then I think welding cable is a feasible solution.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Drxz, post: 5128608, member: 603317"] I work for Trystar-Bridgewater Tech in Faribault, MN where the cable is manufactured and it is a very high quality commercial grade cable. I recently, used 1/0 premium cable (non-ul) in my car audio setup that I got from work and I had no issues with the cable not being flexible enough. The stranded copper is to AWG specs, so you're getting 1/0 size, no less, no more. This way when you buy 1/0 lugs or ring terminals you know you have the correct wire size for the terminal end. The PVC jacket used on the wire is incredibly tough (has to be; this cable is used by rental and construction companies), and the cable is double insulated. I know there is talk about how TCW (tinned copper wire) has greater resistance to oxidation degradation, but it is not necessary in a car application, unlike in a marine application. Sure, wicking could occur in the engine compartment, but with properly crimped or better yet soldered terminal ends and heat shrink tubing, the bare copper is not as susceptible to moisture. The conductor is rated for 600v and the insulation would need to be subjected to temps above 220 degrees F to degrade. The extrusion process alone takes temps of 310 degress F to apply the insulator to the bare copper. Here is a quote I found regarding this issue: Here is a pic of my setup in the engine compartment: [IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q71/drxz/IMG_1235.jpg[/IMG] For those looking for a cheap alternative and not needing the cosmetics of translucent colored jacketing then I think welding cable is a feasible solution. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Why not welding cable?
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list
