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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Why do you need the BIG 3 on stock electrical?
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<blockquote data-quote="The_Quiet_One" data-source="post: 8469539" data-attributes="member: 614562"><p>Yeah, the ground point is generally super weak with stock wiring. If you have 0 money it definitely is worth the effort to redo the stock ground (sand the contact point at least).....From what I read towards the end I thought he was saying there was no gain at all as long as your wire could handle the current from your alt. That's wrong. (It was late maybe I just didn't get his point.) Like I said if you have a modest system (for example</p><p></p><p>Does every install merit the big 3 especially for super thick wire? No. It's a blanket suggestion meant to mitigate some of the issues that many people in the hobby could have. I don't know what you're doing with the gain knob even after you read the horrors of hard clipping. You just want to squeeze out as much performance as possible and you notice the gain knob is a quick way to potentially make it louder at the expense of additional current. I don't know if your playing modded music that has a 24 hz tone throughout the entire song because it sounds good. I don't know if you will get the smart idea to drop your impedance to .5 ohms on an amp that may try its best to make it happen because you read about people dropping to .5 ohm all the time. I don't know if you picked up a Cactus Sounds PF600.1 (or some other cheater amp that intentionally undersells itself) at the fleamarket for $50 and figured it was close enough in power to your Fosgate p300.1 to just throw it in their setup because 600 isn't that much more than 300. Point is when you wire for car audio you're wiring for a dynamic number of variables not alternator output. In probably 99% of installs the alt is insufficient and that power will be drawn from the battery. Once that begins to happen on a regular basis the electrical balancing act becomes considerably less straightforward. If someone wanted to they could do research into their own habits/setup and figure out if stock wiring is enough, but in a hobby where people routinely have difficulty figuring out final impedance on their own, that someone would be a minority.</p><p></p><p>The big 3 is generally an easy suggestion, a good suggestion, and quite often a cheap suggestion which many people could benefit from.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="The_Quiet_One, post: 8469539, member: 614562"] Yeah, the ground point is generally super weak with stock wiring. If you have 0 money it definitely is worth the effort to redo the stock ground (sand the contact point at least).....From what I read towards the end I thought he was saying there was no gain at all as long as your wire could handle the current from your alt. That's wrong. (It was late maybe I just didn't get his point.) Like I said if you have a modest system (for example Does every install merit the big 3 especially for super thick wire? No. It's a blanket suggestion meant to mitigate some of the issues that many people in the hobby could have. I don't know what you're doing with the gain knob even after you read the horrors of hard clipping. You just want to squeeze out as much performance as possible and you notice the gain knob is a quick way to potentially make it louder at the expense of additional current. I don't know if your playing modded music that has a 24 hz tone throughout the entire song because it sounds good. I don't know if you will get the smart idea to drop your impedance to .5 ohms on an amp that may try its best to make it happen because you read about people dropping to .5 ohm all the time. I don't know if you picked up a Cactus Sounds PF600.1 (or some other cheater amp that intentionally undersells itself) at the fleamarket for $50 and figured it was close enough in power to your Fosgate p300.1 to just throw it in their setup because 600 isn't that much more than 300. Point is when you wire for car audio you're wiring for a dynamic number of variables not alternator output. In probably 99% of installs the alt is insufficient and that power will be drawn from the battery. Once that begins to happen on a regular basis the electrical balancing act becomes considerably less straightforward. If someone wanted to they could do research into their own habits/setup and figure out if stock wiring is enough, but in a hobby where people routinely have difficulty figuring out final impedance on their own, that someone would be a minority. The big 3 is generally an easy suggestion, a good suggestion, and quite often a cheap suggestion which many people could benefit from. [/QUOTE]
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Why do you need the BIG 3 on stock electrical?
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