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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Why do you need the BIG 3 on stock electrical?
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<blockquote data-quote="adulbrich" data-source="post: 8469354" data-attributes="member: 661255"><p>I once ran a 4k amp on completely stock electrical //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif</p><p></p><p>60 amp alternator and a small lead acid battery. Didn't even do the big 3.</p><p></p><p>Amp was ran at 2 ohms nominal, but still had terrible voltage drop. I was that young idiot in your example a few years ago, lol</p><p></p><p></p><p>I don't like to go over 15v. Occasionally when it's really cold, my alts will charge up to 15.3v when I first turn my truck on. After I turn my system on and the alternators warm up, voltage drops down to a safe level.</p><p></p><p></p><p>That would completely defeat the purpose unless the wires were damaged. Even then, I would replace them with larger wire.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Wire can handle much more than "rated" specs in bursts. How much current wire can carry varies based on a number of factors. The longer the run of wire is, the less current it can carry safely. Also, when it gets hot under your hood, that extra heat adds resistance, which adds heat, ect.</p><p></p><p>If you have a 140 amp stock alternator (like I had), you may still have 8 gauge stock wiring. My truck did. In short bursts like when you start the truck up after the battery was drained, the wire can carry the current to the battery. However, if there was a serious load on my electrical system, that wire wouldn't carry 140 amps all day in the summer.</p><p></p><p>I remember reading an interesting writeup about fuses a while ago. Even fuses can take much more than their rated current for short bursts, and not blow. The longer that current is traveling through the wire, the more heat will build up, which adds resistance, which causes more heat, ect.</p><p></p><p>When you add an extra load on the stock electrical system like an amp, things change. If you don't upgrade your charging wires, those are often the weakest link. A couple things could happen. Commonly, you would have bad voltage drop and your aftermarket equipment would be damaged.</p><p></p><p>If you upgrade your wiring and are constantly placing a high load on your electrical system, you alternator and/or batteries will still be taxed. I really don't feel like continuing this explanation, because you won't listen anyways.</p><p></p><p></p><p>What's your point? You know stock electrical. You don't know serious car audio.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="adulbrich, post: 8469354, member: 661255"] I once ran a 4k amp on completely stock electrical [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif[/IMG] 60 amp alternator and a small lead acid battery. Didn't even do the big 3. Amp was ran at 2 ohms nominal, but still had terrible voltage drop. I was that young idiot in your example a few years ago, lol I don't like to go over 15v. Occasionally when it's really cold, my alts will charge up to 15.3v when I first turn my truck on. After I turn my system on and the alternators warm up, voltage drops down to a safe level. That would completely defeat the purpose unless the wires were damaged. Even then, I would replace them with larger wire. Wire can handle much more than "rated" specs in bursts. How much current wire can carry varies based on a number of factors. The longer the run of wire is, the less current it can carry safely. Also, when it gets hot under your hood, that extra heat adds resistance, which adds heat, ect. If you have a 140 amp stock alternator (like I had), you may still have 8 gauge stock wiring. My truck did. In short bursts like when you start the truck up after the battery was drained, the wire can carry the current to the battery. However, if there was a serious load on my electrical system, that wire wouldn't carry 140 amps all day in the summer. I remember reading an interesting writeup about fuses a while ago. Even fuses can take much more than their rated current for short bursts, and not blow. The longer that current is traveling through the wire, the more heat will build up, which adds resistance, which causes more heat, ect. When you add an extra load on the stock electrical system like an amp, things change. If you don't upgrade your charging wires, those are often the weakest link. A couple things could happen. Commonly, you would have bad voltage drop and your aftermarket equipment would be damaged. If you upgrade your wiring and are constantly placing a high load on your electrical system, you alternator and/or batteries will still be taxed. I really don't feel like continuing this explanation, because you won't listen anyways. What's your point? You know stock electrical. You don't know serious car audio. [/QUOTE]
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Why do you need the BIG 3 on stock electrical?
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