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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Why do you need the BIG 3 on stock electrical?
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<blockquote data-quote="shizzzon" data-source="post: 8469342" data-attributes="member: 590338"><p>Ok, you are now getting back on topic and i will go back and say the SAME thing again i said before..</p><p></p><p>AMPERAGE is NOT the only factor in wire sizing.</p><p></p><p>Please say that 100x before replying.</p><p></p><p>The larger the wire with the SAME amps running through it will have LESS voltage drop.</p><p></p><p>In case you did not know, under maximum load in a vehicle, whatever source is drawing the most current is the point of the most potential voltage drop FROM the alternator point.</p><p></p><p>And yes, there is voltage drop in a vehicle.</p><p></p><p>I'm surprised you've never said this yet but i will-</p><p></p><p>Purchase a newer vehicle, wait til nighttime, let it idle with headlights on at night.</p><p></p><p>It's not uncommon for light to dim when the cooling fan kicks on, or when Traction Control kicks in(this is protected by LARGE fuse in most vehicles) or when AC kicks on, etc..</p><p></p><p>These instances of headlights dimming is voltage drop and large at that since it's visible to the eye without tools.</p><p></p><p>And we are not necessarily even talking about this voltage drop, but this is from stock wiring.</p><p></p><p>Yet, the car is fine because there is a degree of acceptable voltage drop that will not cause damage.</p><p></p><p>But that's not acceptable. It needs to be more efficient.</p><p></p><p>And if you think i or we are being too technical about it-</p><p></p><p>Go look at Power Conditioning units for house.</p><p></p><p>They prevent power surges in the house from effecting electrical devices.</p><p></p><p>IE- there are thousands of surges in a house annually from it's STOCK wiring.</p><p></p><p>It's all from using the bare minimum.</p><p></p><p>Surges are what weaken electronics.</p><p></p><p>We want to prolong the life of the money we invest in this hobby.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shizzzon, post: 8469342, member: 590338"] Ok, you are now getting back on topic and i will go back and say the SAME thing again i said before.. AMPERAGE is NOT the only factor in wire sizing. Please say that 100x before replying. The larger the wire with the SAME amps running through it will have LESS voltage drop. In case you did not know, under maximum load in a vehicle, whatever source is drawing the most current is the point of the most potential voltage drop FROM the alternator point. And yes, there is voltage drop in a vehicle. I'm surprised you've never said this yet but i will- Purchase a newer vehicle, wait til nighttime, let it idle with headlights on at night. It's not uncommon for light to dim when the cooling fan kicks on, or when Traction Control kicks in(this is protected by LARGE fuse in most vehicles) or when AC kicks on, etc.. These instances of headlights dimming is voltage drop and large at that since it's visible to the eye without tools. And we are not necessarily even talking about this voltage drop, but this is from stock wiring. Yet, the car is fine because there is a degree of acceptable voltage drop that will not cause damage. But that's not acceptable. It needs to be more efficient. And if you think i or we are being too technical about it- Go look at Power Conditioning units for house. They prevent power surges in the house from effecting electrical devices. IE- there are thousands of surges in a house annually from it's STOCK wiring. It's all from using the bare minimum. Surges are what weaken electronics. We want to prolong the life of the money we invest in this hobby. [/QUOTE]
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Why do you need the BIG 3 on stock electrical?
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