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Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Why do people think large cars **** for systems?
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<blockquote data-quote="Wingman0121" data-source="post: 6856729" data-attributes="member: 620554"><p>Vehicles that are good for a REALLY LOUD stereo are SUVs, wagons and hatchbacks because the sub is essentially in the cabin with you. The smaller the vehicle the better because it won't have as much air space to compress. Sedans can get loud but usually you'll need a lot more power and capable subs just to do the same decibels. Yes you can remove the rearseat and cut sheetmetal but that's a no no for some vehicles. For example...</p><p></p><p>My old car, 94 Golf GL, I hit 148.8dB on an AC mic with a pair of Pioneer Premier TS-W2000SPL in a custom ported box I made myself, a Crossfire CFA1000D and a deep cycle battery next to it. My score increased to 149.6dB with an USA-2000X but I ran out of voltage and didn't want to break the amp.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j255/weister42/Home%20and%20Car%20Audio/IMG_0214.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>My current car has two identical large batteries, two Recoil Red 1000.1s and two custom-built TC Sounds subwoofers, and I feel that it isn't as loud as the old Golf even though I haven't got it metered yet.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j255/weister42/Home%20and%20Car%20Audio/IMG_2604.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>^^^ The black rack that the white Cadence amp is mounted on is a rack for my car's relays, stability control and keyless entry system so that can't be removed unless I relocate all that ****, not to mention the center steel beam is part of my car's structure so I can't cut that either.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j255/weister42/Home%20and%20Car%20Audio/IMG_0731.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Basically you should give a thumbs up if you see a really loud trunk car, because it is a lot more work.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Wingman0121, post: 6856729, member: 620554"] Vehicles that are good for a REALLY LOUD stereo are SUVs, wagons and hatchbacks because the sub is essentially in the cabin with you. The smaller the vehicle the better because it won't have as much air space to compress. Sedans can get loud but usually you'll need a lot more power and capable subs just to do the same decibels. Yes you can remove the rearseat and cut sheetmetal but that's a no no for some vehicles. For example... My old car, 94 Golf GL, I hit 148.8dB on an AC mic with a pair of Pioneer Premier TS-W2000SPL in a custom ported box I made myself, a Crossfire CFA1000D and a deep cycle battery next to it. My score increased to 149.6dB with an USA-2000X but I ran out of voltage and didn't want to break the amp. [IMG]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j255/weister42/Home%20and%20Car%20Audio/IMG_0214.jpg[/IMG] My current car has two identical large batteries, two Recoil Red 1000.1s and two custom-built TC Sounds subwoofers, and I feel that it isn't as loud as the old Golf even though I haven't got it metered yet. [IMG]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j255/weister42/Home%20and%20Car%20Audio/IMG_2604.jpg[/IMG] ^^^ The black rack that the white Cadence amp is mounted on is a rack for my car's relays, stability control and keyless entry system so that can't be removed unless I relocate all that ****, not to mention the center steel beam is part of my car's structure so I can't cut that either. [IMG]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j255/weister42/Home%20and%20Car%20Audio/IMG_0731.jpg[/IMG] Basically you should give a thumbs up if you see a really loud trunk car, because it is a lot more work. [/QUOTE]
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