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General Car Audio
which sub(s) for my home theater
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<blockquote data-quote="ciaonzo" data-source="post: 5969041" data-attributes="member: 607015"><p>I can see by this statement it's important for you to be right and to have the last word so after this I won't address you any further.</p><p></p><p>I just realized it's not the thread that's hilarious, it's you. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif I laugh in your general direction telling me about "the mechanics of what it takes" considering most of my income is from building two channel home audio systems. I don't mean I buy things and set them up in someone's home. I mean I consult with individuals to find out what their goals are and I hand select drivers, design and build enclosures and filters. In addition, I specialize in building transmission line enclosures that enable one to use small drivers to go very deep while remaining very dynamic and musical. I can make a 5" driver play flat to 30hz easy. Making an 8" driver play into the teens with full power handling is not that difficult. Once you've built a few dozen highly specialized two channel music systems for very demanding customers, home theater is literally a joke. It's so easy in comparison.</p><p></p><p>There are 8" drivers out there with an Fs lower than 35, lol. I can and have used two 8" drivers and get performance very close to that of a single 15". Using four, I can guarantee better performance, in less than 6 cubes total I should add. The best part is, you can use those four 8s to compliment your musical system. That's something you just can't do with a Titanic 15". Try as you might, it will not "disappear" sonically. I've played with that driver too, I know.</p><p></p><p>It is for this reason I suggested the 15" in my earlier post, since it's out of his budget to get the caliber of 8" that could outperform a 15". By choosing the HF over the Titanic you'd give up a couple of dB worth of headroom or output (whichever you value more) to gain a far lower distortion figure and a lower inductance which will lend itself to being used for music the 25% of the time mobeious has stated.</p><p></p><p>Thanks for the laughs PV.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ciaonzo, post: 5969041, member: 607015"] I can see by this statement it's important for you to be right and to have the last word so after this I won't address you any further. I just realized it's not the thread that's hilarious, it's you. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif[/IMG] I laugh in your general direction telling me about "the mechanics of what it takes" considering most of my income is from building two channel home audio systems. I don't mean I buy things and set them up in someone's home. I mean I consult with individuals to find out what their goals are and I hand select drivers, design and build enclosures and filters. In addition, I specialize in building transmission line enclosures that enable one to use small drivers to go very deep while remaining very dynamic and musical. I can make a 5" driver play flat to 30hz easy. Making an 8" driver play into the teens with full power handling is not that difficult. Once you've built a few dozen highly specialized two channel music systems for very demanding customers, home theater is literally a joke. It's so easy in comparison. There are 8" drivers out there with an Fs lower than 35, lol. I can and have used two 8" drivers and get performance very close to that of a single 15". Using four, I can guarantee better performance, in less than 6 cubes total I should add. The best part is, you can use those four 8s to compliment your musical system. That's something you just can't do with a Titanic 15". Try as you might, it will not "disappear" sonically. I've played with that driver too, I know. It is for this reason I suggested the 15" in my earlier post, since it's out of his budget to get the caliber of 8" that could outperform a 15". By choosing the HF over the Titanic you'd give up a couple of dB worth of headroom or output (whichever you value more) to gain a far lower distortion figure and a lower inductance which will lend itself to being used for music the 25% of the time mobeious has stated. Thanks for the laughs PV. [/QUOTE]
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which sub(s) for my home theater
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