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which route should I take?
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<blockquote data-quote="bbeljefe" data-source="post: 8142293" data-attributes="member: 655960"><p>I wouldn't assume anything. Especially the size of the cable running from the alternator to the battery, because it's normally 8 gauge and sometimes 10, although being that the battery is that far away I would think even the factory would use 8 gauge. You definitely don't need an HO alternator with 140 amps and only a thousand watts but you do need a good path from the alternator to the battery and from the battery to the amplifier.</p><p></p><p>Personally, I'd do a big three with 2 gauge but 4 will work also. Make sure you have a good ground from the alternator to the chassis too, as the factory usually only does a small ground strap from engine to chassis. I would also run as large a battery as possible, preferably an AGM but at least the largest wet lead acid you can fit. Leave the lawnmower battery on the lawnmower. You'd be better off with a good capacitor than a lawnmower battery and with your battery so close to the amp, that's not even necessary.</p><p></p><p>Think of it this way. When your car is running (which is when you do most of your listening) the battery is only there as a reserve cell. The alternator provides operational current to the vehicle and is also supposed to keep a surface charge on the battery. i.e., keep it "hot" so that when you kill the ignition, the battery will be ready for the next starting of the vehicle.</p><p></p><p>With that said, design your wiring as though the battery isn't your amp's power source, and make sure all of the wire that goes from the alternator to the amp is the same size and is of ample size for the current the amp will need. In that instance and given the length, 4 gauge is sufficient but 2 gauge would be ideal, to give the system headroom for those deep, hard bass notes.</p><p></p><p>Also, if you over build the electrical supply to your amplifier, you will notice a marked improvement on how hard the sub hits and, you'll be insured against long term damage to the amplifier, sub and alternator due to stressing them to their limits.</p><p></p><p>As for gain settings, (I assume you're using the factory hu and a line level converter) you need to find someone with an oscilloscope or a DD-1 to check where the head unit signal clips and then that setting needs to be used to set the volume correctly for the actual gain setting on the amp, which again needs to be set with a scope or a DD-1.</p><p></p><p>Do that and your sub won't wind up back at the doctor's office.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bbeljefe, post: 8142293, member: 655960"] I wouldn't assume anything. Especially the size of the cable running from the alternator to the battery, because it's normally 8 gauge and sometimes 10, although being that the battery is that far away I would think even the factory would use 8 gauge. You definitely don't need an HO alternator with 140 amps and only a thousand watts but you do need a good path from the alternator to the battery and from the battery to the amplifier. Personally, I'd do a big three with 2 gauge but 4 will work also. Make sure you have a good ground from the alternator to the chassis too, as the factory usually only does a small ground strap from engine to chassis. I would also run as large a battery as possible, preferably an AGM but at least the largest wet lead acid you can fit. Leave the lawnmower battery on the lawnmower. You'd be better off with a good capacitor than a lawnmower battery and with your battery so close to the amp, that's not even necessary. Think of it this way. When your car is running (which is when you do most of your listening) the battery is only there as a reserve cell. The alternator provides operational current to the vehicle and is also supposed to keep a surface charge on the battery. i.e., keep it "hot" so that when you kill the ignition, the battery will be ready for the next starting of the vehicle. With that said, design your wiring as though the battery isn't your amp's power source, and make sure all of the wire that goes from the alternator to the amp is the same size and is of ample size for the current the amp will need. In that instance and given the length, 4 gauge is sufficient but 2 gauge would be ideal, to give the system headroom for those deep, hard bass notes. Also, if you over build the electrical supply to your amplifier, you will notice a marked improvement on how hard the sub hits and, you'll be insured against long term damage to the amplifier, sub and alternator due to stressing them to their limits. As for gain settings, (I assume you're using the factory hu and a line level converter) you need to find someone with an oscilloscope or a DD-1 to check where the head unit signal clips and then that setting needs to be used to set the volume correctly for the actual gain setting on the amp, which again needs to be set with a scope or a DD-1. Do that and your sub won't wind up back at the doctor's office. [/QUOTE]
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