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Message: <blockquote data-quote="forbidden" data-source="post: 744987" data-attributes="member: 552189">Something for you to consider on this quest. 5 watts can make a tweeter scream while 5 watts on a sub makes it sit there. You do not need that much power for the front stage unless the back end is so overbearing that it dicates it. Then if this is valid, the second mid up front dictates the necessity of a bandpass crossover and amp to control it indipendent of the other mid (which has it's own crossover). You cannot just hook another mid up to that MB Quart crossover, it throws the entire crossover point out the window. (an exception to this is if you are using the MB Quart add a woofer system that comes with it's own crossover). Yes these components can be parallel wired and ran at 2 ohms, another option would be a good 4 channel amp in the 75 - 125 watt area and on one side of it you biwire in the tweeter. This is going to allow indipendent control of the second mid and it's highpass crossover point by use of the crossover on the amp and add a dedicated gain control. This is handy if the mid is in a different location or different airspace from the other mid.More power, sure if you think you need it. Just remember again about that tweeter though. Take your tweeter and it's crossover and  hook it up to a headunit and see how loud it is going to play. It takes no power at all for that tweeter to rip your head off, it does not need power. For 4 mids more power can be a good thing but keep it to 4 ohms otherwise all your hard work on alignment and staging is thrown out the window by what happens when impedence drops. If you plan on running the system balls to the wall, then as much power as you are thinking may be necessary, but I highly doubt it. A good 4 channel amp to condier is the Eclipse PA5422, older Soundstreams (way older - none of the new garbage), Xtant X604 (used in a system somewhat similar to the one you have (too much power for my customer)), crossfire VR804 (stupid amount of power) and many others. Tru, Brax, Helix, Audison should also make your short list if dollars are no object. If they are, go with the tried and true Eclipse I suggested. <a href="http://www.eclipse-web.com" target="_blank">http://www.eclipse-web.com</a>As impedence drops, heat output goes up, damping factor goes out the window, sq is thrown away (vs. 4ohm), current draw goes way up. The best move that you can make is to run a good class AB amp to the front components at 4 ohms, add a second amp to</blockquote>

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