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Car Audio Equipment
Head Units
Which amplified head units allow bridged channels?
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<blockquote data-quote="CrazyPete" data-source="post: 609621" data-attributes="member: 557896"><p>I took a look at the pioneer knowledge base and it seems that they are of the opinion that their units dont bridge. I assume then that the woofer is simply run off the regular rear channel as c0la suggested. Which pioneer units have been "seen" bridgeable? I'd like to go comb through some specs while I wait for code to compile.</p><p></p><p>Not to sound negative but just so everyone understands where I am coming from: I spent the last 4 months wiring, rewiring and rewiring again my kenwood over and over again because either it would turn itself off or the sound would fade in and out or it would not turn on at all. Then I finally wired it up so none of that happened but got horrible alt whine even though the amp was basically lashed to the battery itself in the "trunk" running right off maybe 3 inch lengths of wire to the posts. Then I put it in the rear 1/4 well behind the plastic all stealthy and it actually worked for 1 whole day before that surge that took out my entire electronics system, ignition box and amp. Last year, my eec-iv ecu burnt out (went carb) and the $250 maf before that. This car has electrical gremlins. The way I see it: Headunit + cd changer + amp means 3 things that can and will, with my bad luck, fail. 1 single headunit could be triple fused, isolated and paranoically protected, switched and the 3 bundles of wires mummified rather than the current 8 bundles + 4 modules.</p><p></p><p>All bellyaching aside =)</p><p></p><p>I did some research</p><p></p><p>That pioneer CQ-C9800U unit does not list RMS but only peak, which leaves me wondering especially after I saw this clip:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://tristanrules.com/images/panasonic.JPG" target="_blank">http://tristanrules.com/images/panasonic.JPG</a></p><p></p><p>which rated the pioneer at 22.4 watts (I assume this is it's true rated continuous power). Plus I read the manual and it seems as if the CQ-C9800U takes only a 15 amp fuse on it's main lead and the draw is "less than 2.5 amps" so it cannot be better than that v-drive which takes a 20 amp fuse (havent researched it yet but I'm getting there they have 27 watts RMS on their better units ). Now I had a look at my kac-646's specs and it was listed as rated 25Wx4channel at 4 ohms at 1 khz .08% distortion or 70W rated 1 khz .8 distortion bridged rear channel. I had been running a single jl audio powerwedge 10 inch woofer (4 ohms I think) on the bridged channel with the gain on .8 out of 3 (not sure what units that corresponds to). I dont know how having than gain turned down equates into these numbers but my gut feeling is that the 70 turned all the way down was painfully loud then the 27 turned all the way up should come close . So the alpines are the most powerful self contained units it seems.</p><p></p><p>What bad things happen if you put both rear + speaker leads and both - speaker leads together? Less amp draw?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CrazyPete, post: 609621, member: 557896"] I took a look at the pioneer knowledge base and it seems that they are of the opinion that their units dont bridge. I assume then that the woofer is simply run off the regular rear channel as c0la suggested. Which pioneer units have been "seen" bridgeable? I'd like to go comb through some specs while I wait for code to compile. Not to sound negative but just so everyone understands where I am coming from: I spent the last 4 months wiring, rewiring and rewiring again my kenwood over and over again because either it would turn itself off or the sound would fade in and out or it would not turn on at all. Then I finally wired it up so none of that happened but got horrible alt whine even though the amp was basically lashed to the battery itself in the "trunk" running right off maybe 3 inch lengths of wire to the posts. Then I put it in the rear 1/4 well behind the plastic all stealthy and it actually worked for 1 whole day before that surge that took out my entire electronics system, ignition box and amp. Last year, my eec-iv ecu burnt out (went carb) and the $250 maf before that. This car has electrical gremlins. The way I see it: Headunit + cd changer + amp means 3 things that can and will, with my bad luck, fail. 1 single headunit could be triple fused, isolated and paranoically protected, switched and the 3 bundles of wires mummified rather than the current 8 bundles + 4 modules. All bellyaching aside =) I did some research That pioneer CQ-C9800U unit does not list RMS but only peak, which leaves me wondering especially after I saw this clip: [URL="http://tristanrules.com/images/panasonic.JPG"]http://tristanrules.com/images/panasonic.JPG[/URL] which rated the pioneer at 22.4 watts (I assume this is it's true rated continuous power). Plus I read the manual and it seems as if the CQ-C9800U takes only a 15 amp fuse on it's main lead and the draw is "less than 2.5 amps" so it cannot be better than that v-drive which takes a 20 amp fuse (havent researched it yet but I'm getting there they have 27 watts RMS on their better units ). Now I had a look at my kac-646's specs and it was listed as rated 25Wx4channel at 4 ohms at 1 khz .08% distortion or 70W rated 1 khz .8 distortion bridged rear channel. I had been running a single jl audio powerwedge 10 inch woofer (4 ohms I think) on the bridged channel with the gain on .8 out of 3 (not sure what units that corresponds to). I dont know how having than gain turned down equates into these numbers but my gut feeling is that the 70 turned all the way down was painfully loud then the 27 turned all the way up should come close . So the alpines are the most powerful self contained units it seems. What bad things happen if you put both rear + speaker leads and both - speaker leads together? Less amp draw? [/QUOTE]
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Which amplified head units allow bridged channels?
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