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<blockquote data-quote="starkfu" data-source="post: 3312104" data-attributes="member: 579412">no, the fuse should be matched to the current draw of the components you are running that fall under the max rating of the cable.&nbsp; So where 10 gauge can HANDLE up to 25-30 amps, you don&#039;t fuse it for that, you fuse for what you are running off of it.So a head unit is usually fused at the factory at 15 amps.&nbsp; You don&#039;t put in a 30 amp fuse for a 15 amp max draw piece of electronics.&nbsp; You put in a 15 amp.&nbsp; Otherwise you run the risk of blowing up your electronics if they short or malfunction.&nbsp; Where a 15 amp fuse would blow and protect the electronics, putting in a 30 amp fuse would ensure that the current rating threshold would be surpassed and damage will occur.Conversely, if you are running an amplifier off of 4 gauge to the battery, and the amp has 4 20 amp fuses, you don&#039;t put a 150 amp fuse at the battery, you put an 80 amp fuse.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="starkfu, post: 3312104, member: 579412"] no, the fuse should be matched to the current draw of the components you are running that fall under the max rating of the cable. So where 10 gauge can HANDLE up to 25-30 amps, you don't fuse it for that, you fuse for what you are running off of it. So a head unit is usually fused at the factory at 15 amps. You don't put in a 30 amp fuse for a 15 amp max draw piece of electronics. You put in a 15 amp. Otherwise you run the risk of blowing up your electronics if they short or malfunction. Where a 15 amp fuse would blow and protect the electronics, putting in a 30 amp fuse would ensure that the current rating threshold would be surpassed and damage will occur. Conversely, if you are running an amplifier off of 4 gauge to the battery, and the amp has 4 20 amp fuses, you don't put a 150 amp fuse at the battery, you put an 80 amp fuse. [/QUOTE]

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