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What will help more a 4 or 5 channel or ?
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8676299" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>buy 1 to 2 inch spacers or make MDF bafffles or say f**k you to rears completely. You dont need rears when your fronts can be heard several football fields away. Fully powering your mids is way more important than trying to run extra speakers and splitting the amp power, your overall sound quality and loudness potential just tanks hard if you do that. </p><p></p><p></p><p>garbage alts, buy from trusted companies that are known and tested to make proper amperage with good customer service and longevity/reliablility in their products.I'd say big 3 and 2nd agm battery to the rear would be an alternative option to the alt if budget is an issue. </p><p></p><p>I'd say big 3 and 2nd agm battery to the rear would be an alternative option to the alt if budget is an issue you can get a really good group 31 duracell platinum from sears which is a rebadged deka for 189. </p><p></p><p>Your head unit is not active capable. You'll need to buy tweeters that come with an inline crossover. I'd recommend massive CT2s avoid any skar tweeters, they sound horrible i've heard almost every line they have all junk. </p><p></p><p>You might also want an adjustable low pass capable amp. Those skars play higher frequencies and sound absolutely nasty when you go louder without any control. You need to basically say stfu stupid fsxs and play only midrange/midbass. I've tuned like 5 setups with the FSXs. All of them needed from 2500hz low pass to 4000hz low pass at various slopes to sound good its different with each vehicle. I'd highly recommend swapping your kenwood for a pioneer <span style="font-size: 21px">mvh- </span>S512BS Its the same price bracket as your kenwood but is 1000x better, 4 volt pre-outs, network mode capabilities and with the smart sync app you have a 30 band EQ you can work with if you wanted. Thats definitely what you need in the future if you want any resemblance of sound quality/loud and clean in your setup. </p><p></p><p>What the low pass would do is let you play a lot louder, your mids, instruments and male vocals will be stronger and louder, your female vocals will be just as loud(vs overly loud sharp and blaring with weak male vocals) There will be an overall smooth blend between mid and tweeter which is key. You'll also be able to throw a lot more power to them and get really loud while sounding really good. Vs just loud and sound like total ****.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8676299, member: 650438"] buy 1 to 2 inch spacers or make MDF bafffles or say f**k you to rears completely. You dont need rears when your fronts can be heard several football fields away. Fully powering your mids is way more important than trying to run extra speakers and splitting the amp power, your overall sound quality and loudness potential just tanks hard if you do that. garbage alts, buy from trusted companies that are known and tested to make proper amperage with good customer service and longevity/reliablility in their products.I'd say big 3 and 2nd agm battery to the rear would be an alternative option to the alt if budget is an issue. I'd say big 3 and 2nd agm battery to the rear would be an alternative option to the alt if budget is an issue you can get a really good group 31 duracell platinum from sears which is a rebadged deka for 189. Your head unit is not active capable. You'll need to buy tweeters that come with an inline crossover. I'd recommend massive CT2s avoid any skar tweeters, they sound horrible i've heard almost every line they have all junk. You might also want an adjustable low pass capable amp. Those skars play higher frequencies and sound absolutely nasty when you go louder without any control. You need to basically say stfu stupid fsxs and play only midrange/midbass. I've tuned like 5 setups with the FSXs. All of them needed from 2500hz low pass to 4000hz low pass at various slopes to sound good its different with each vehicle. I'd highly recommend swapping your kenwood for a pioneer [SIZE=21px]mvh- [/SIZE]S512BS Its the same price bracket as your kenwood but is 1000x better, 4 volt pre-outs, network mode capabilities and with the smart sync app you have a 30 band EQ you can work with if you wanted. Thats definitely what you need in the future if you want any resemblance of sound quality/loud and clean in your setup. What the low pass would do is let you play a lot louder, your mids, instruments and male vocals will be stronger and louder, your female vocals will be just as loud(vs overly loud sharp and blaring with weak male vocals) There will be an overall smooth blend between mid and tweeter which is key. You'll also be able to throw a lot more power to them and get really loud while sounding really good. Vs just loud and sound like total ****. [/QUOTE]
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What will help more a 4 or 5 channel or ?
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