Reply to thread

Message

<blockquote data-quote="bbeljefe" data-source="post: 8246094" data-attributes="member: 655960">On most boxes I use a circular saw, table saw, table mounted router, circle jig router, roundover router, hole saw, brad nailer, speed square, various straight edges, rip fence, 90° clamps, Titebond II &amp;amp; cordless drills/screw guns.For some boxes I also use a jig saw, hot glue gun, staple gun, angle finder &amp;amp; contour gauge, trunk carpet/fleece, chop mat, resin &amp;amp; body filler. And for finishing I use a belt sander, palm sander, da, air file, hand blocks spray gun &amp;amp; undercoat gun.For low to moderately powered boxes I use 5 way binding post terminal cups and for high powered boxes I use heavy duty binding posts or sometimes, bolts and nuts for wiring connections. Also for moderate to high powered boxes I use 8-32 to ¼-20 nutserts or t-nuts &amp;amp; stainless steel socket head bolts for driver mounting.One thing that I see used all too often and that is NOT allowed in my shop is silicone caulk. Silicone caulk is designed for non-porous surfaces such as glass and stone but so many box builders use it inside their boxes as a sealant. However, it does not stick to wood/MDF, it sticks to itself and that&#039;s about it. It&#039;s also messy as h3ll to clean up, it stinks and, nothing (especially primer/paint) will stick to it. Matter of fact, it&#039;s vapor alone will cause nearby paint not to stick. In the end... if your cuts are true all that&#039;s needed to seal joints is a liberal amount of good wood glue. And if they aren&#039;t true (which is understandable for some builds or for those without a host of tools to use) the best thing to use is either standard painter&#039;s caulk, Polyseamseal or hot glue. When used correctly hot glue not only acts as a sealant but it also acts as a very reliable adhesive so, it adds strength that silicone and even painter&#039;s caulk can&#039;t.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="bbeljefe, post: 8246094, member: 655960"] On most boxes I use a circular saw, table saw, table mounted router, circle jig router, roundover router, hole saw, brad nailer, speed square, various straight edges, rip fence, 90° clamps, Titebond II & cordless drills/screw guns. For some boxes I also use a jig saw, hot glue gun, staple gun, angle finder & contour gauge, trunk carpet/fleece, chop mat, resin & body filler. And for finishing I use a belt sander, palm sander, da, air file, hand blocks spray gun & undercoat gun. For low to moderately powered boxes I use 5 way binding post terminal cups and for high powered boxes I use heavy duty binding posts or sometimes, bolts and nuts for wiring connections. Also for moderate to high powered boxes I use 8-32 to ¼-20 nutserts or t-nuts & stainless steel socket head bolts for driver mounting. One thing that I see used all too often and that is NOT allowed in my shop is silicone caulk. Silicone caulk is designed for non-porous surfaces such as glass and stone but so many box builders use it inside their boxes as a sealant. However, it does not stick to wood/MDF, it sticks to itself and that's about it. It's also messy as h3ll to clean up, it stinks and, nothing (especially primer/paint) will stick to it. Matter of fact, it's vapor alone will cause nearby paint not to stick. In the end... if your cuts are true all that's needed to seal joints is a liberal amount of good wood glue. And if they aren't true (which is understandable for some builds or for those without a host of tools to use) the best thing to use is either standard painter's caulk, Polyseamseal or hot glue. When used correctly hot glue not only acts as a sealant but it also acts as a very reliable adhesive so, it adds strength that silicone and even painter's caulk can't. [/QUOTE]

Verification