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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
What is the biggest system I can have on stock electrical?
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<blockquote data-quote="n2audio" data-source="post: 8461136" data-attributes="member: 540940"><p>There are so many variables involved it's really difficult to come up with even a rough guideline.</p><p></p><p>Replacement alts I'm seeing for a 99 Cherokee are 117A.</p><p></p><p>ANY aftermarket electronics add load to the alternator. At what point that load becomes a problem is where the gray area lies (and there's a LOT of it).</p><p></p><p>Most of us that have followed the hobby for a few years have read problems people are having with 500w rms while others blast 1500w rms constantly with little to no trouble which is clear evidence of the difficulty in saying what's too much and what is ok.</p><p></p><p>Plus, what is actually a "problem" may not be known until damage is done. My previous car, for example - had a 130A alternator. I ran 1500w rms in it. Day-to-day it ran perfectly fine, but two of those alternators failed in 3 yrs. So WAS there a problem? Well, no, it ran fine day after day, but YES, the alt failed every 18 mo.</p><p></p><p>IMPO - at 1000w you should assume the alternator is working pretty hard. If you blast it a lot, especially at low engine speed count on the life of the alternator being significantly shortened. Whether that's 10 yrs to 8 yrs or 5 yrs to 1 yr is impossible to say.</p><p></p><p>Going up from 1000w will clearly make things worse.</p><p></p><p>You can effect the situation a lot simply by keeping the volume down. A 1000w system at full volume will draw 30-40A almost continuously. At 1/2 volume you're looking at 10-15A.</p><p></p><p>My approach has always been to install what I want to install, and know how to replace my alternator.</p><p></p><p>I made sure the replacement part I bought had a lifetime warranty so my blown alt only cost me the time and hassle to replace it -- well, it cost me a tow too, but fortunately my insurance company reimbursed me.</p><p></p><p>The other option is to put in a big HO and hope it lives up to its specs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="n2audio, post: 8461136, member: 540940"] There are so many variables involved it's really difficult to come up with even a rough guideline. Replacement alts I'm seeing for a 99 Cherokee are 117A. ANY aftermarket electronics add load to the alternator. At what point that load becomes a problem is where the gray area lies (and there's a LOT of it). Most of us that have followed the hobby for a few years have read problems people are having with 500w rms while others blast 1500w rms constantly with little to no trouble which is clear evidence of the difficulty in saying what's too much and what is ok. Plus, what is actually a "problem" may not be known until damage is done. My previous car, for example - had a 130A alternator. I ran 1500w rms in it. Day-to-day it ran perfectly fine, but two of those alternators failed in 3 yrs. So WAS there a problem? Well, no, it ran fine day after day, but YES, the alt failed every 18 mo. IMPO - at 1000w you should assume the alternator is working pretty hard. If you blast it a lot, especially at low engine speed count on the life of the alternator being significantly shortened. Whether that's 10 yrs to 8 yrs or 5 yrs to 1 yr is impossible to say. Going up from 1000w will clearly make things worse. You can effect the situation a lot simply by keeping the volume down. A 1000w system at full volume will draw 30-40A almost continuously. At 1/2 volume you're looking at 10-15A. My approach has always been to install what I want to install, and know how to replace my alternator. I made sure the replacement part I bought had a lifetime warranty so my blown alt only cost me the time and hassle to replace it -- well, it cost me a tow too, but fortunately my insurance company reimbursed me. The other option is to put in a big HO and hope it lives up to its specs. [/QUOTE]
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What is the biggest system I can have on stock electrical?
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