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Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
What is "SQ" these days?
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<blockquote data-quote="ThxOne" data-source="post: 8648837" data-attributes="member: 675210"><p>[USER=632125]@LosIsATool[/USER] - I do listen, that&#39;s why I watched the videos, looked at the software (well, the GUI of each DSP), prices, read some owners manuals (pdf&#39;s) and so on. Now when it comes time to pull the trigger and buy the DSP if there is a HELIX or Bit ONE or 3Sixty.3 cheap enough then it would be silly not to jump on one of them. I have a buddy that does the same thing... suggest something, I research it, I make up my OWN mind and do something else based on my research and taste, it ends up working just fine, my buddy loses his mind because I didn&#39;t do what he suggested and takes it personally. Case in point. I had to change a ball joint, he told me to only get the "Moog" ball joint as "ALL OTHERS ARE JUNK AND WILL FAIL" I like Moog, I did not buy Moog, I bought a house brand, made by a reputable company with a good warranty for less money. I have not had to replace it nor have I had a problem with it. He got personally offended even though it does what it is designed to do and I saved money. He even said he would not help me put it on the vehicle. Makes no sense. I&#39;d hate to see you not posting, you are helpful.</p><p></p><p></p><p> [USER=650438]@Jeffdachef[/USER]f - I am a big fan of matching the visible parts of the system. The prime amp was always going to be a temporary amp for my sub. I bought it for $100 out the door at a pawn shop, ordered the correct gain knob and hooked it up. How was I to know RF lowest line, least expensive amps would be... well, good. Everything I am looking to do is subject to change... it all comes down to timing and money. I am always on the lookout for deals and what not. The overall goal is not going to change - A Bi-amplified active 3-way system capable of playing up to 96/24 audio. My phone doesn&#39;t leave my pocket while I am driving so I don&#39;t use it for music.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ThxOne, post: 8648837, member: 675210"] [USER=632125]@LosIsATool[/USER] - I do listen, that's why I watched the videos, looked at the software (well, the GUI of each DSP), prices, read some owners manuals (pdf's) and so on. Now when it comes time to pull the trigger and buy the DSP if there is a HELIX or Bit ONE or 3Sixty.3 cheap enough then it would be silly not to jump on one of them. I have a buddy that does the same thing... suggest something, I research it, I make up my OWN mind and do something else based on my research and taste, it ends up working just fine, my buddy loses his mind because I didn't do what he suggested and takes it personally. Case in point. I had to change a ball joint, he told me to only get the "Moog" ball joint as "ALL OTHERS ARE JUNK AND WILL FAIL" I like Moog, I did not buy Moog, I bought a house brand, made by a reputable company with a good warranty for less money. I have not had to replace it nor have I had a problem with it. He got personally offended even though it does what it is designed to do and I saved money. He even said he would not help me put it on the vehicle. Makes no sense. I'd hate to see you not posting, you are helpful. [USER=650438]@Jeffdachef[/USER]f - I am a big fan of matching the visible parts of the system. The prime amp was always going to be a temporary amp for my sub. I bought it for $100 out the door at a pawn shop, ordered the correct gain knob and hooked it up. How was I to know RF lowest line, least expensive amps would be... well, good. Everything I am looking to do is subject to change... it all comes down to timing and money. I am always on the lookout for deals and what not. The overall goal is not going to change - A Bi-amplified active 3-way system capable of playing up to 96/24 audio. My phone doesn't leave my pocket while I am driving so I don't use it for music. [/QUOTE]
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