Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
What do you think bout' my system?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="geolemon" data-source="post: 315887" data-attributes="member: 547749"><p><strong>Free answers:</strong></p><p></p><p><em>Gunshot</em> -</p><p></p><p>It doesn't matter, it's not even close to the same frequency range, so it doesn't matter, any comparison you might draw to what SPL competitions do...</p><p></p><p>Let's say for no particular reason that a gunshot was 140dB.</p><p></p><p>It's a high frequency, that much high frequency energy could instantly damage your hearing.</p><p></p><p>That same 140dB, in the low frequency range, might just be enough to start getting interesting, shaking things around. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif</p><p></p><p><em>Amps</em> -</p><p></p><p>the Boss amp you mentioned is rated at 250x2, bridged it will do 600x1 (rms).</p><p></p><p>The Profile amp he mentioned is 200x2, bridged it will do 700x1 (rms).</p><p></p><p>Absolutely never look at "max" power numbers, it's meaningless.</p><p></p><p>I could take an amplifier, and run it to a dead short, and for a fraction of an instant, a spark might flow of such a charge that if measured, and compared to the amp's voltage, might do 10,000 watts... that spark also happening to instantly melt the amp. It's just a meaningless number, with no standards behind it.</p><p></p><p>RMS, on the other hand, is a measurement of how much power can flow through the amp on a continuous basis, as you might find in normal operating conditions, and (most importantly) there are standards dictating how RMS is calculated.</p><p></p><p>You can often tell a cheap amp (ie. one that's not worth owning) by one of two things:</p><p></p><p>1) the amp's power ratings are silk-screened on the heatsink (surprisingly accurate indicator, despite having obviously no real necessary correlation!).</p><p></p><p>2) the amp's power ratings on the packaging/marketing material list "max" power specs.</p><p></p><p>Both of these things are done to appeal to absolutely NO one but the newbie, who sees larger numbers, and yet doesn't understand them. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif</p><p></p><p>Personally, I think neither of these suits your needs...</p><p></p><p>Both of these amps are class A/B amps (nearly all multi-channel amps are).</p><p></p><p>Class D amps (most mono sub amps are) are more efficient, and cost less, per watt. They also usually come with built-in features that are more appropriate specifically for use as a subwoofer amp.</p><p></p><p>If you want 600 watts, the JBL 600.1 does that, and it's cheap, and reliable, and JBL is a reputable company... some might say that the others you've mentioned are not... but it's all relative.</p><p></p><p>Check out <a href="http://www.ikesound.com" target="_blank">http://www.ikesound.com</a> for a steal on that amp.</p><p></p><p>Before you buy any amp though, you do need to purchase an amp that will be compatible with the impedance of your subs...</p><p></p><p>What subs were they, and what impedance?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="geolemon, post: 315887, member: 547749"] [B]Free answers:[/B] [I]Gunshot[/I] - It doesn't matter, it's not even close to the same frequency range, so it doesn't matter, any comparison you might draw to what SPL competitions do... Let's say for no particular reason that a gunshot was 140dB. It's a high frequency, that much high frequency energy could instantly damage your hearing. That same 140dB, in the low frequency range, might just be enough to start getting interesting, shaking things around. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] [I]Amps[/I] - the Boss amp you mentioned is rated at 250x2, bridged it will do 600x1 (rms). The Profile amp he mentioned is 200x2, bridged it will do 700x1 (rms). Absolutely never look at "max" power numbers, it's meaningless. I could take an amplifier, and run it to a dead short, and for a fraction of an instant, a spark might flow of such a charge that if measured, and compared to the amp's voltage, might do 10,000 watts... that spark also happening to instantly melt the amp. It's just a meaningless number, with no standards behind it. RMS, on the other hand, is a measurement of how much power can flow through the amp on a continuous basis, as you might find in normal operating conditions, and (most importantly) there are standards dictating how RMS is calculated. You can often tell a cheap amp (ie. one that's not worth owning) by one of two things: 1) the amp's power ratings are silk-screened on the heatsink (surprisingly accurate indicator, despite having obviously no real necessary correlation!). 2) the amp's power ratings on the packaging/marketing material list "max" power specs. Both of these things are done to appeal to absolutely NO one but the newbie, who sees larger numbers, and yet doesn't understand them. [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] Personally, I think neither of these suits your needs... Both of these amps are class A/B amps (nearly all multi-channel amps are). Class D amps (most mono sub amps are) are more efficient, and cost less, per watt. They also usually come with built-in features that are more appropriate specifically for use as a subwoofer amp. If you want 600 watts, the JBL 600.1 does that, and it's cheap, and reliable, and JBL is a reputable company... some might say that the others you've mentioned are not... but it's all relative. Check out [URL="http://www.ikesound.com"]http://www.ikesound.com[/URL] for a steal on that amp. Before you buy any amp though, you do need to purchase an amp that will be compatible with the impedance of your subs... What subs were they, and what impedance? [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
What do you think bout' my system?
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list
