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Weird Issue with popping system?
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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8703995" data-attributes="member: 679555"><p>I'm certainly not going to say that a larger battery wouldn't change things for the better, but the difference for the voltage spike is going to be minimal for a battery compared to a capacitor. The difference would be the difference in rate that the current battery can charge with its internal resistances compared to the new one. If you go from standard lead acid to AGM you will get a decent bump in the amount of power the battery uses, but I don't think it will be nearly as big of a difference as a capacitor which can charge at hundreds of amps in very short bursts. It would definitely help with the voltage drop like I mentioned earlier, but I don't know if I would need to have my car off while using any of those accessories. Even now I'm paranoid about playing music without the car being on and it drains over the course of like 30 minutes so it wouldn't be an issue for me at least.</p><p></p><p>What I will say is if you're going to get a battery swap of any sort you may want to see how it responds to that before a cap, but I wouldn't expect much so that's more to address the voltage drop you were talking about earlier than this pop sound.</p><p></p><p>I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'm curious what RCAs you're using that you can do that to? The ones that came in my first rockford fosgate wiring kit couldn't prevent the hum from the engine for me, but maybe there's better RCAs out there. More recently I've been using the rigid ones which claim to have better shielding but at the same time I got those I also got an active LOC so it kinda nullified any need for super shielded cables with like 7-9v signal input.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8703995, member: 679555"] I'm certainly not going to say that a larger battery wouldn't change things for the better, but the difference for the voltage spike is going to be minimal for a battery compared to a capacitor. The difference would be the difference in rate that the current battery can charge with its internal resistances compared to the new one. If you go from standard lead acid to AGM you will get a decent bump in the amount of power the battery uses, but I don't think it will be nearly as big of a difference as a capacitor which can charge at hundreds of amps in very short bursts. It would definitely help with the voltage drop like I mentioned earlier, but I don't know if I would need to have my car off while using any of those accessories. Even now I'm paranoid about playing music without the car being on and it drains over the course of like 30 minutes so it wouldn't be an issue for me at least. What I will say is if you're going to get a battery swap of any sort you may want to see how it responds to that before a cap, but I wouldn't expect much so that's more to address the voltage drop you were talking about earlier than this pop sound. I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'm curious what RCAs you're using that you can do that to? The ones that came in my first rockford fosgate wiring kit couldn't prevent the hum from the engine for me, but maybe there's better RCAs out there. More recently I've been using the rigid ones which claim to have better shielding but at the same time I got those I also got an active LOC so it kinda nullified any need for super shielded cables with like 7-9v signal input. [/QUOTE]
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Weird Issue with popping system?
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