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Weird Issue with popping system?
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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8703975" data-attributes="member: 679555"><p>Yeah, sounds about right. Well boys, we may have found one of the few cases where an auto audio capacitor is actually a decent investment. I'd wire it parallel to the terminals on the amplifier.</p><p></p><p>If you know anyone with a good min/max recording multimeter like a Fluke 187/189 or an oscilloscope it would be useful in determining that peak for the best solution, the crowbar latching devices only work well if the voltage goes beyond what the car normally sees with voltage, so if it peaks from 12.2v to 14.4, well then it's not going to work very well because every time you're driving around with 14.4 it's going to be latched using up power or oscillating from its own voltage drop. If however the peak is at 16v you can be pretty certain that your vehicle's never going to get that high of voltage and it won't latch during normal use except during that spike. If you're not sure and have no equipment to test that peak on you're going to want to go with the capacitor because it will help regardless of the spike characteristics.</p><p></p><p>When buying an car audio cap it's buyer beware, a lot of the farad ratings are just outright false. I would check youtube videos of people checking their values or just buy maxwells or illinois power caps and assemble the proper capacitance myself. Once again you'd want the characteristics of that peak to know exactly what value you're looking for, but 1-2 farads should be plenty for minimizing the intensity of the pop if it doesn't go away entirely.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8703975, member: 679555"] Yeah, sounds about right. Well boys, we may have found one of the few cases where an auto audio capacitor is actually a decent investment. I'd wire it parallel to the terminals on the amplifier. If you know anyone with a good min/max recording multimeter like a Fluke 187/189 or an oscilloscope it would be useful in determining that peak for the best solution, the crowbar latching devices only work well if the voltage goes beyond what the car normally sees with voltage, so if it peaks from 12.2v to 14.4, well then it's not going to work very well because every time you're driving around with 14.4 it's going to be latched using up power or oscillating from its own voltage drop. If however the peak is at 16v you can be pretty certain that your vehicle's never going to get that high of voltage and it won't latch during normal use except during that spike. If you're not sure and have no equipment to test that peak on you're going to want to go with the capacitor because it will help regardless of the spike characteristics. When buying an car audio cap it's buyer beware, a lot of the farad ratings are just outright false. I would check youtube videos of people checking their values or just buy maxwells or illinois power caps and assemble the proper capacitance myself. Once again you'd want the characteristics of that peak to know exactly what value you're looking for, but 1-2 farads should be plenty for minimizing the intensity of the pop if it doesn't go away entirely. [/QUOTE]
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Weird Issue with popping system?
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