Reply to thread

Message

<blockquote data-quote="ninjatek" data-source="post: 2800132" data-attributes="member: 568991">2 different situations. the mono amp will only turn back on if I replace the fuse. but the fuse isn&#039;t blown, i can turn around and put the fuse into the fuseholder of the 4 channel amp and that amp works fine.with the 4 channel amp, it goes into protect, and will come right back up if I turn the volume down. But if I turn the volume down to bring it back up, then crank it right away, it goes back down.&nbsp; If it goes into protect and QUICKLY I turn my car off, replace the fuse, and start the car, I can get another 10 minutes of cranked volume... it seems that replacing the fuse seems to extend the time before going into protect...the previous owner of the car, who is a car audio buff, says it could be the passive crossovers from the components.. while the set is rated at 4ohms, which is what I want, he thinks just having the coils in the electrical path before getting to the speakers, even though its a 4 ohm load, is still enough to cause it..he is trying to convince me to go active, but right now, my HU doesn&#039;t support running the active setup from the HU ( so i need to by another controller) and I really can&#039;t afford that and another amp when if I could just get this setup right I&#039;d be more than happy</blockquote>

[QUOTE="ninjatek, post: 2800132, member: 568991"] 2 different situations. the mono amp will only turn back on if I replace the fuse. but the fuse isn't blown, i can turn around and put the fuse into the fuseholder of the 4 channel amp and that amp works fine. with the 4 channel amp, it goes into protect, and will come right back up if I turn the volume down. But if I turn the volume down to bring it back up, then crank it right away, it goes back down. If it goes into protect and QUICKLY I turn my car off, replace the fuse, and start the car, I can get another 10 minutes of cranked volume... it seems that replacing the fuse seems to extend the time before going into protect... the previous owner of the car, who is a car audio buff, says it could be the passive crossovers from the components.. while the set is rated at 4ohms, which is what I want, he thinks just having the coils in the electrical path before getting to the speakers, even though its a 4 ohm load, is still enough to cause it.. he is trying to convince me to go active, but right now, my HU doesn't support running the active setup from the HU ( so i need to by another controller) and I really can't afford that and another amp when if I could just get this setup right I'd be more than happy [/QUOTE]

Verification