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Volvo S60 build resurrected! Old School!
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<blockquote data-quote="americannight" data-source="post: 7926454" data-attributes="member: 624648"><p>Here's a picture of both trunk panels fitting in for the first time along with the factory trunk floor. It may not look like it, but this was a major step with lots of tedious sanding and body filler work needed to get them fitted the way I want. I am going to have a piece of acrylic cut to frame each amp so it will have a flushed in look. Leaning towards black acrylic.</p><p></p><p>I'm also happy to report that the GT Mat has arrived. Thanks to Blake at GT for tossing in a sample of the 50mil deadener as well to try. So far I have deadened the trunk lid and some critical areas of the trunk such as larger side panels, wheel wells, etc. I've decided to take a conservative approach at this point with using the product in areas where it will do the most good such as the middle of large panels and anything that resonates a lot when I tap it. I've also been wrapping some wires in fleece. The largest area I have deadened so far is the trunk lid which on the volvo S60 consists of the metal body panels and also a composite panel which fits over it on the exterior. That composite panel resonated a lot, even when just slamming the trunk lid closed. So the trunk itself got 2-3 layers of GT mat in some places and the composite exterior piece was removed, treated with GT Mat, and then fixed back onto the vehicle. The trunk now shuts solidly with a satisfying 'thunk'! Did a bit of deadening behind my mids in the front door. So far I'm quite pleased with the GT Mat. It sticks on very well. I used a bit of heat to apply it because it's cold here but it did not take much, just 2-3 passes with the heat gun was enough. I've only used about half of my GT Mat at this stage. Like I said, I focussed on critical areas and I want to have plenty left over. When I have the subwoofers going then I'll identify other areas to focus on. For now, just got the obvious areas.</p><p></p><p>Next steps for this project will be a final layer of fiberglass on these amp enclosures, then will draw out the shape of the subwoofer enclosure bottom using cardboard. I'll be tracing around the footprint of the amp enclosures so the sub box will fit right in. Once I have the bottom of the sub enclosure cut, then I will make the rings/baffle for the woofers and start framing it in. The goal for the sub box is to have a nice custom fitted look but still be removable. The only wires going to the sub box will be the + - from the sub amp into a terminal hidden out of the way and that's it. The woofers will be arranged in a V shape on the front of the enclosure.</p><p></p><p>I'm planning this to be a ported enclosure with the woofers firing back, towards the trunk. What has proven to be the best direction to face the ports? I'm trying to weigh out the pros and cons. If I face the ports back, the same direction of the woofers, should I be concerned about cancellation? If I face them up, I may hear more port noise. Putting them on the back of the box, facing towards the cabin is something I've done in the past and it was OK. But I'm wondering what other people have done and what seems to get the best results? Again, the woofers I'm using are two Image Dynamics IDQv3 12".</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.theamericannight.com/images/trunk%20panel%2010.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="americannight, post: 7926454, member: 624648"] Here's a picture of both trunk panels fitting in for the first time along with the factory trunk floor. It may not look like it, but this was a major step with lots of tedious sanding and body filler work needed to get them fitted the way I want. I am going to have a piece of acrylic cut to frame each amp so it will have a flushed in look. Leaning towards black acrylic. I'm also happy to report that the GT Mat has arrived. Thanks to Blake at GT for tossing in a sample of the 50mil deadener as well to try. So far I have deadened the trunk lid and some critical areas of the trunk such as larger side panels, wheel wells, etc. I've decided to take a conservative approach at this point with using the product in areas where it will do the most good such as the middle of large panels and anything that resonates a lot when I tap it. I've also been wrapping some wires in fleece. The largest area I have deadened so far is the trunk lid which on the volvo S60 consists of the metal body panels and also a composite panel which fits over it on the exterior. That composite panel resonated a lot, even when just slamming the trunk lid closed. So the trunk itself got 2-3 layers of GT mat in some places and the composite exterior piece was removed, treated with GT Mat, and then fixed back onto the vehicle. The trunk now shuts solidly with a satisfying 'thunk'! Did a bit of deadening behind my mids in the front door. So far I'm quite pleased with the GT Mat. It sticks on very well. I used a bit of heat to apply it because it's cold here but it did not take much, just 2-3 passes with the heat gun was enough. I've only used about half of my GT Mat at this stage. Like I said, I focussed on critical areas and I want to have plenty left over. When I have the subwoofers going then I'll identify other areas to focus on. For now, just got the obvious areas. Next steps for this project will be a final layer of fiberglass on these amp enclosures, then will draw out the shape of the subwoofer enclosure bottom using cardboard. I'll be tracing around the footprint of the amp enclosures so the sub box will fit right in. Once I have the bottom of the sub enclosure cut, then I will make the rings/baffle for the woofers and start framing it in. The goal for the sub box is to have a nice custom fitted look but still be removable. The only wires going to the sub box will be the + - from the sub amp into a terminal hidden out of the way and that's it. The woofers will be arranged in a V shape on the front of the enclosure. I'm planning this to be a ported enclosure with the woofers firing back, towards the trunk. What has proven to be the best direction to face the ports? I'm trying to weigh out the pros and cons. If I face the ports back, the same direction of the woofers, should I be concerned about cancellation? If I face them up, I may hear more port noise. Putting them on the back of the box, facing towards the cabin is something I've done in the past and it was OK. But I'm wondering what other people have done and what seems to get the best results? Again, the woofers I'm using are two Image Dynamics IDQv3 12". [IMG]http://www.theamericannight.com/images/trunk%20panel%2010.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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